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HiBC · July 26, 2012, 12:36 PM

I'll assume the slide will not move from the closed position.

I would consider it loaded till you prove otherwise.

You might try using a pencil,inserted from the muzzle till it stops,then see if the length it went in is the same as from muzzle to breech face.If there is a round in the chamber it will stop short.

Then,a soak is good.Grips off.Solvent,ATF,etc all good.

Be sure the thumb safety is in the fire position.

If rust is an issue,KW Knockerloose is a NAPA product that works well.

Most 1911's have some slide to frame clearance.A light tapping with a plastic or rawhide mallet (clean faces,no chips embedded) sideways,up and down the sides of the slide should help break a bond.Now,I'm talking tap it like it can feel pain,about like you might whack your own knee cap.

I suggest not whacking on the barrel bushing,slide stop,etc

July 26, 2012, 12:36 PM	#12
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,286	I'll assume the slide will not move from the closed position. I would consider it loaded till you prove otherwise. You might try using a pencil,inserted from the muzzle till it stops,then see if the length it went in is the same as from muzzle to breech face.If there is a round in the chamber it will stop short. Then,a soak is good.Grips off.Solvent,ATF,etc all good. Be sure the thumb safety is in the fire position. If rust is an issue,KW Knockerloose is a NAPA product that works well. Most 1911's have some slide to frame clearance.A light tapping with a plastic or rawhide mallet (clean faces,no chips embedded) sideways,up and down the sides of the slide should help break a bond.Now,I'm talking tap it like it can feel pain,about like you might whack your own knee cap. I suggest not whacking on the barrel bushing,slide stop,etc Last edited by HiBC; July 26, 2012 at 12:47 PM.