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Old November 22, 2019, 07:40 PM   #15
labnoti
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Join Date: April 2, 2018
Posts: 213
Modern autos are designed-around to avoid the kind of things that require careful craftsmanship and attention to detail with 1911's and revolvers. If it has to work without intervention for 10,000 rounds, the 1911 or revolver is going to take a lot of attention to detail.

I'm around revolvers quite a bit. The most common problem I see is the ejector rod coming backed out enough to make it so the cylinder cannot be opened by hand. It can be fixed with loctite. The rod can be tightened with some nylon-jaw pliers rather than just finger-tight. It can be checked regularly. Or it can just be forgotten until it locks up the cylinder.

The second most common problem I see is the screw that holds the crane in the frame loosens and backs out enough that the crane can fall out and drop the cylinder. These screws normally have the hardened thread locker on them from the factory. Loctite can help keep it in place. The screw should be checked for tightness reguarly.

I have seen debris like jacket shavings clog up the cylinder gap and make revolving the cylinder hard. If this happens, you can try to power through it with a heavy trigger pull but you can bend the hand that way. If it's practice and not combat, it's better to push the cylinder open and clear the crud. This is ultimately caused by a problem with the cartridge or the timing on the revolver is off. Revolvers need the timing checked regularly, but probably less often than a 1911 needs a new recoil spring, and the frequency at which the timing needs to be adjusted is far, far less than that.

Getting stuff like empty shells caught under the ejector star will jam things up for a moment, but it can be cleared quickly. The problem can get worse if there are loose cartridges in the star or chambers that you need because a speedloader already dropped its load. I prefer moon clips because the ammunition stays together as a package. There is no reason for powder fouling to interfere with the star. That's just filthy ammo that should not be used. I've seen a lot of revolver shooters that shoot dirty crap. I can shoot a 500 rounds through my stainless gun and not see more than a little copper gilding. Shoot the black sooty garbage that sheds powder skeletons if you want jams.

If you want to shoot high-pressure loads, you'll want very clean chambers. Nickel-plated brass ejects easier. You can also have the chambers honed. Avoid Titanium cylinders which never eject tight cases smoothly. I've had Titanium cylinders cut the heads off cases because they stick when fired and the pressure blows the head back. The cut case stuck in the chamber won't allow a fully-loaded moon clip to chamber. It's easier to clear the cartridge that won't drop in from a speedloader, but I think Titanium cylinders should be reserved for low-pressure ammo or better yet, competition rather than carry.

I've used a wide variety of revolver grips that interfered with ejection. You would be wrong to assume that a grip maker has designed their grip to function. There are more grips out there that don't work than there are that do. The relief for the ejected shells must be cut so shells can come all the way out and drop clear of the gun. For reliable ejection, the ejector rod should also be long enough. Even the longest rods are too short to push 357 cases all the way out. They depend on the inertia of the shells as they're accelerated by a swift hit of the rod. But compact revolvers may have even shorter rods that do a very poor job of ejection.

Last edited by labnoti; November 22, 2019 at 07:48 PM.
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