I have Cerakote on my FDE AR... and while it is nice, I really don’t have the time on the gun to have an opinion on it. DuraKote is a definite no, mainly from other people’s guns I’ve seen it on (especially the long haul).
I do have to ask... what is the difference between Poly-T2 and Roguard? There is a good description between Roguard and NP3 in their FAQ, but reading the Poly-T2 description... all I got is that it is similar to a non-stick pan (PTFE). Between the two, which would be tougher? The difference between doing all NP3 Plus and Roguard/Poly-T2 is $40... so it is kind of hard to not put the extra money in and go NP3 Plus on the whole thing. Even Parkerizing on the exterior is saving $70 compared to complete NP3 Plus... which I feel is worth the difference to stick with NP3 Plus.
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Originally Posted by T. O'Heir
"...Just rubs off..." Indicates it's not either applied correctly or it's not black phosphate.
Parkerizing, "black oxide" and black phosphating are the same thing using different chemicals.
Black phosphating/"black oxide" is what's found on current and military firearms from the mid 50's onwards. My 870's barrel is phosphated. No issues. No issues with my .243 hunting rifle I had phosphated by a local metal finishing shop nearly 40 years ago either.
Parkerizing is a brand name for the finish used on U.S. W.W. II firearms. Comes out in shades of grey depending on the metal it goes on, when it's zinc based. Black, when it's manganese based. M1 Rifles should be black.
None of 'em will just rub off.
"...factory folding stock..." Don't. Looks great in a movie, but nearly totally useless in reality. Not as bad as a pistol grip only but close.
"...from a shop that does good work..." Look in your local Yellow Pages under metal finishers. Talk to 'em first too. You really need a gun guy who'll know what you're talking about. When you send any firearm, all the springs must be out(a metal finisher probably won't do it and it'll cost more) and you send only the parts you want finished. Don't forget the screws.
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I figure it is black oxide because that is what Remington has on their website of the finish on the TAC-14... Working the action prior to firing it and post cleaning, I had black come off the bolt when I swiped my finger along it. Whether it is applied wrong, or not black oxide... still in the same boat. Not going to send it back to Remington, being I want something better. Not to mention there are quite a few non-stock parts that will be on it (barrel, extension, sidesaddle, etc).
I am also familiar with Parkerizing, as my 870 Police originally had it (NP3 Plus, now), my DGR M1903 was done in it, as was my Garand that Shuff redid. I’m tossing that into the mix because it is a decent finish for at least the second 870 I’m planning. It is not going to be a hard use shotgun.
I want to do the folder for my own desire. I’ve read plenty of opinions on them, so thank you for your warning. However, I’m looking to put an 870 together with that stock. I already have two home defense shotguns; 870 Police with Magpul furniture and Ithaca 37.
In regards to local shops, it isn’t really an option in NJ. Most non-gun places won’t do it, and if I’m leaving a shotgun to be refinished, either they would have to be an FFL or I’d have to do a CoE and transfer it to the person doing the work (they would need a FID, as well).
I’ve also sent firearms into Robar and CCR multiple times. Only refinishing shop that would require the firearm completely stripped was Shuff... if it was one he wasn’t familiar with (considered a Winchester 1897, which I opted not to do). Looking for places that will do disassembly/reassembly, so prefer an actual firearms refinisher.
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Originally Posted by Dfariswheel
You could also look at having the gun nitride treated.
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Any recommendations?