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From your description, it sounds like you have a REALLY light rebound spring.
A spring that is too light will give you a really light pull--but it will not allow the trigger to move far enough to get that top trigger shelf out of the way of the DA fly. This is what is catching the back of the trigger and pushing it down.
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That struck me as so counter-intuitive I had to take the side plate off one of my Smiths to see. After cocking and dry-firing the action without the side plate and observing the workings of the rebound slide and return spring, I concluded the following: There is nothing about shortening by clipping, installing a weaker trigger return spring that would not "...allow the trigger to move
far enough..." A shortened trigger return spring is less likely to have the coils close up and stop the rearward travel of the trigger. A trigger return spring that was cut way too short, would not provide the pre-load pressure that is apparent when installing the spring into the rebound tunnel. If one did actually install a "way too short", trigger return spring, there would be obvious slack in the trigger (would flop for and aft) and it would be difficult to single-action cock the hammer. On the other hand, if a way-too-long trigger return spring were to be installed in the rebound slide, in theory the coils could close up inside the rebound slide and bottom out on the strut that stops the spring from coming out of the tunnel, causing the trigger to stop before it would release the hammer. However, I have never heard of such a long spring unless a K-L-N trigger return spring in a J-frame slide. But logically seem that a trigger-return spring stacked against the strut would stop hammer from releasing at all.
I experimented with the main-spring by backing it out and observing how the the single action feature worked with it slacked-off. I seemed to work relatively normal until the strain-screw was almost all the way out. So, I really do not think that could likely be the problem.
I suspect, but do not know with any certainty, that some Bubba stoned the single action notch on the trigger and/or the hammer to an incorrect angle. If that be true (and one cannot put metal back where it was removed), the "fix", may require a new hammer and/or trigger.
If someone disagrees with anything I have said, I am very open for counter-opinions. You will not hurt my feelings and if I can learn something, I will be grateful.