The Firing Line Forums - View Single Post - What tools do I need to replace a mauser barrel?

F. Guffey · April 30, 2010, 01:39 PM

GregM, I have no ideal what the lathe is used for when replacing a barrel, before I install a barrel for convincing I use a colet on the gear end of a lathe and use the chuck to hold hold the barrel in when checking the effect the short chamber will have on head space and when reaming the chamber before installing the barrel on the receiver.

First check the head space on the rifle before removing the 'old' barrel then check the chamber for case protrusion, if the head space is OK? the measurement can be used when reaming the chamber in the new barrel.

Equipment" a barrel vise, action wrench, reamer and dial caliper, if you are going to be shooting gages by all means get a go-gage, I shoot ammo new and or ammo I load, I use new commercial ammo and or full length sized cases for gages. You can rent the reamer, the problem with barrel vises they do not work, for me not a problem, I use a hydraulic press with bushing made of aluminum, I am not bashful about pumping the press up, I do not hesitate to put an extension of the handle of the action wrench.

When using the cute little woods blocks with rosin I have come close to setting the wood on fire, at 290 lbs I have been suspended on the end of a 4 foot extension before the barrel and receiver broke loose with a loud noise, sometimes a shock is required, always hook up the two tools close close together to eliminate twist.

Torque when removing a barrel: 290 lbs.X 4'6"=1,305 ft lbs
Torque when installing a barrel 60 lb X 1 ft+ 60 ft lbs, the threads on the Mauser are 12x.110, it would seem 60 ft lbs would be on the light side BUT the face of the barrel bottoms out against the receiver 'C' ring (torque/seating ring) the best way to brake a bolt is to bottom it out first then tighten.

A barrel wrench is held in a vise, again the tool that is sold to hold the barrel is designed to be bolted to something that will hold it but the little wood blocks will not hold the barrel for removal, I have 48" pipe wrenches I can use when the barrel is scrap, but even when it is scrap the chamber can be cut off and reamed for a chamber test gage.

F. Guffey

April 30, 2010, 01:39 PM	#9
F. Guffey Senior Member Join Date: July 18, 2008 Posts: 7,249	GregM, I have no ideal what the lathe is used for when replacing a barrel, before I install a barrel for convincing I use a colet on the gear end of a lathe and use the chuck to hold hold the barrel in when checking the effect the short chamber will have on head space and when reaming the chamber before installing the barrel on the receiver. First check the head space on the rifle before removing the 'old' barrel then check the chamber for case protrusion, if the head space is OK? the measurement can be used when reaming the chamber in the new barrel. Equipment" a barrel vise, action wrench, reamer and dial caliper, if you are going to be shooting gages by all means get a go-gage, I shoot ammo new and or ammo I load, I use new commercial ammo and or full length sized cases for gages. You can rent the reamer, the problem with barrel vises they do not work, for me not a problem, I use a hydraulic press with bushing made of aluminum, I am not bashful about pumping the press up, I do not hesitate to put an extension of the handle of the action wrench. When using the cute little woods blocks with rosin I have come close to setting the wood on fire, at 290 lbs I have been suspended on the end of a 4 foot extension before the barrel and receiver broke loose with a loud noise, sometimes a shock is required, always hook up the two tools close close together to eliminate twist. Torque when removing a barrel: 290 lbs.X 4'6"=1,305 ft lbs Torque when installing a barrel 60 lb X 1 ft+ 60 ft lbs, the threads on the Mauser are 12x.110, it would seem 60 ft lbs would be on the light side BUT the face of the barrel bottoms out against the receiver 'C' ring (torque/seating ring) the best way to brake a bolt is to bottom it out first then tighten. A barrel wrench is held in a vise, again the tool that is sold to hold the barrel is designed to be bolted to something that will hold it but the little wood blocks will not hold the barrel for removal, I have 48" pipe wrenches I can use when the barrel is scrap, but even when it is scrap the chamber can be cut off and reamed for a chamber test gage. F. Guffey