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Old April 9, 2016, 02:41 PM   #4
JeepHammer
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Join Date: February 27, 2015
Posts: 1,768
FOR SOMEONE WANTING TO BUILD A VOLUME ANNEALING MACHINE,

SOME THINGS THAT HAVE WORKED FOR ME...

To keep the tubing/coil from contacting the brass rifle case directly,
Use high temperature fiberglass tube on the wire or tubing.
3 feet is like $3, so it's dirt cheap...

If you use a 'Drop Through' type production annealer, I had an issue with keeping the case CENTERED in the coil.

I solved that one with a CERAMIC (Non-Metalic, Non-Conductive, High Heat) TIG welding gas focus tube.
#8 size gas tube for MIG welding torch has a 1/2" center hole and is ceramic/high heat/high temp, about $1 each, and sits in the coil to center the cases as the fall into the coil.

MIG gas cones have a funnel shape to start with, so they work really well for dropping a case into, having the cone center the case.
Nothing like 'Self Aligning' when you are doing production so things don't screw up when you are watching cartoons or looking for a cold one while watching the machine work!

Since it's ceramic, it's invisible to the magnetic 'Eddie Currents' that heat the brass from within, it doesn't melt or short anything out, and at $1 each, if I drop and break one once in a while it doesn't bust the budget replacing it.

Commonly available, and I use the 'Long' version (about 3" long) to stand the case up in the coil dead center so it heats evenly all the way around.

*IF* you are going to 'Board Mount' your components (Timer, Induction Module, Power Supply) do it on a NON CONDUCTIVE material, like Plexi-glass,
Then mount the board in your project case, which can be a metal box if you choose.

The non-conductive platform keeps issues with a 'Ground Loop' or stray shorted circuits from happening when you mount the modules.
Makes things MUCH easier from the start when you aren't worried about short circuits to start with!

Last edited by JeepHammer; April 9, 2016 at 02:54 PM.
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