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Old June 15, 2019, 07:44 PM   #3
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Join Date: October 22, 2016
Posts: 2,715
Originally Posted by 44 AMP View Post
Those are the ones you WANT if you want to shoot them and not just collect them. Shoot old guns, even the most carefully possible, and sometimes, things just break. Break a part on a matching # gun and it changes the value, perhaps HUGELY. Break the same thing on a non-matching gun, the only concern is getting a replacement part that works.

Want to turn a $3000 Luger into an $800 Luger? break a matching # part!

ALSO, beware of "force matches". The value of "matching #s" is the assumption that all the matching # parts are the original parts of that gun.

When only the last two digits are on the parts, you can (sometimes) find "matching" parts from other guns with those same last two digits. Nothing wrong with that, UNLESS the seller pretends they are all original to that gun, and priced at that level. It's fraud if they do. But it has happened.

There are all kinds of fakes and frauds out there, its basically up to you to know what is, and isn't worth the asking price.

If you just want to have an example of a certain gun, to shoot, a mis-match # gun or a reblued gun are the practical way to go.
Awesome, that's great to know for people who are getting into buying antiques to shoot and not just make into safe queens hoping they double in value in 10 or 20 years.

Would be great for "experts" to say what you just told me, but so much of the focus with those types of people is authenticity, conditions, and values more than just shootability.
Any good revolver > Any good semi auto

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