Floating is fairly simple, only if you snatch an entire day from the family business.. Midway USA sells just about everything you'll need, including those pillars. Oneoldsap is definetly right about those pillars, as special tools and instruction are needed for that job. The floating you can definetly do yourself, as I have done it quite a few times. The whole idea is to remove anything touching the barrel from recoil lug to the end of the stock of course, There are basic instructions for this also if you look for them.(look up the process on midwayusa.com and others)
1. I like to set down in a chair, and put my rifle with the butt between my feet muzzle pointed to the sky, I take a piece of notebook paper and try to slide it under my barrel toward the action. taking a mental note where it gets hung up, or if it even can slide down.
2. I then remove barrel and visually inspect the stock for black or dark-spots, as this is where the barrel has vibrated and left distinguished marks up and down the inside of the stock 's barrel-channel. (for lack of a better name) If its too faint to distinguish then move on to step 3,.however if the channel is marked up, those are the places to start.
3. Carefully take that barrel-channel reamer and make long strokes from one end of the channel to the foreend (careful not to chip the foregrip) Remove excess material evenly for five or so strokes and reinstall barrel, and paper test it. As you repeat this series of actions you'll note the paper will start slipping down under the barrel easier, (On my rifles they can usually permit two or three thicknesses of notebook paper to easily slide to and fro). When you get to where your happy with the amount of material that you have removed then let's go to 4.
4.Now we'll start with a semi-rough grit of sandpaper,somewhere around 100 should be rough enough, completely sand channel, while carefull not to sand anywhere else on that stock, change your grades of sandpaper until it's smooth of all the reamer marks. When your also happy about the smoothness of the channel move to finish.
5. There are so many different products to use to seal this channel, and let me tell you this before you even start. Finish the channel carefully so that you only have to do it once!!!!!! Many coats of oil finish rubbed in works probably the best of all, and it's not too messy.. after the stock cures for the instructed time. replace barrel and torque to specs. Paper test. if it passes then wer'e off to the range, however sometimes the oil-finish will bring grain up and you have to lightly sand it once more.
6.This can be done by you if your fairly handy and can for a day be surgical and steady as to not bugger up any of the outside finish. And by all means if you don't think you can handle it the Smith will welcome it, along with those pillars.
Synthetic stocks are a little less fussy as there is no need to refinish the channel just material removal, replace barrel and paper test and repeat until your happy
Thanks for coming!
