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Old August 22, 2011, 01:48 AM   #6
FrankenMauser
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Join Date: August 25, 2008
Location: In the valley above the plain
Posts: 13,424
Quote:
My question is should these be reemed and ,or done in more than the one step that I did?
Check your neck thickness. Compare it to brass that is know-good in your rifle. If you're more than 0.002" over, I would inside ream or outside turn (seemingly redundant descriptions, but that's what we call it ).

Unless you just want to square up the case mouths, don't trim at all, until after the first firing. After that first firing, you'll probably see that the case length has changed. Now, you can trim all of the formed cases to a uniform length.

Sizing the neck to .264", .277", or .284" between the starting and ending diameters would help prevent the loss of some cases. ...But it isn't worth buying a sizing die, just for forming. Your choices are a bit limited, any way. It's basically .260 Rem, .270-308 (maybe .270-257), or 7mm-08.

Quote:
I personally dislike the idea of taking any brass headstamped at one caliber and sizing it to another, whether 308 to 243, 10mm to 40S&W, 357Mag to 38spl, etc. It adds another opportunity for a potential screwup, whether at the bench or on the firing line.
Pay attention to what you're doing.
It's even easier to prevent that "potential screwup", when you don't own a .308. .308 brass is like 9mm and Herpes. You find it everywhere you go. Hobie may not even own one.

If you can't tell the difference between .40 S&W and 10mm, you shouldn't own one. If you can't tell the difference between .38 Special and .357 Mag, you aren't checking your ammo properly. If the issue is other shooters that may make the mistake... Tell them not to start grabbing random ammo, just because they think they own the place. Teach them how to be responsible with reloads (and formed cases).
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Last edited by FrankenMauser; August 22, 2011 at 01:53 AM.
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