The Firing Line Forums - View Single Post - Need HELP with Springfield 1911 "Loaded" assembly

Mikey · December 27, 1999, 10:56 PM

Assuming that you are getting the slide stop pin thru the hole in the link, which can take a little wiggling, you are OK up to the point you describe as your "problem".

The little pin you say is in your way is called the "plunger", and it is the plunger that the slide stop uses as resistance to make it work. This plunger must be depressed to allow the slide stop to go home. The slide must also be positioned to the rear so the takedown notch (the smaller one) is directly over the square hole in the frame that the protruding portion of the slide stop goes thru.

The plunger can be depressed several ways...

You can depress it with a spare firing pin or similarly sized punch but they can mark the frame. I sometimes use a popsicle stick or a thinned handle on an old toothbrush. Depress the plunger and start the slide stop, then pull the stick out of the way while maintaining pressure on the stop. It should pop into place.

You can use the beveled upper part of the slide stop protrusion to depress the plunger but you have to keep a firm hold on the stop or it can slip a scratch the frame. You have to start with the slide stop partially inserted and rotated at a slightly lower than normal position and push upward and toward the center of the gun at the same time. The beveled surface should push the plunger in as the slide stop goes home.

I have learned to do them fairly easily on most 1911's but I really like a trick I learned (can't remember where) where I cut a small v shaped notch in the slide stop with a fine triangular file at the exact position where the plunger strikes the slide stop, as if you were going to push it in at its correct position. The little notch serves as a guide for the plunger and you can just push the little rascal in place. You have to really understand how it works before you do any cutting so you don't mess up any critical surfaces.

Some good news - since your gun is stainless, the scratches will be relatively cheap to remove and refinish. It's really a sandblasting job but a smith will do it at relatively low cost. A smith can also cut the groove for you.

Till then, try the popsicle stick.

Mikey

[This message has been edited by Mikey (edited December 27, 1999).]

December 27, 1999, 10:56 PM	#2
Mikey Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 1998 Location: Tennessee Posts: 885	Assuming that you are getting the slide stop pin thru the hole in the link, which can take a little wiggling, you are OK up to the point you describe as your "problem". The little pin you say is in your way is called the "plunger", and it is the plunger that the slide stop uses as resistance to make it work. This plunger must be depressed to allow the slide stop to go home. The slide must also be positioned to the rear so the takedown notch (the smaller one) is directly over the square hole in the frame that the protruding portion of the slide stop goes thru. The plunger can be depressed several ways... You can depress it with a spare firing pin or similarly sized punch but they can mark the frame. I sometimes use a popsicle stick or a thinned handle on an old toothbrush. Depress the plunger and start the slide stop, then pull the stick out of the way while maintaining pressure on the stop. It should pop into place. You can use the beveled upper part of the slide stop protrusion to depress the plunger but you have to keep a firm hold on the stop or it can slip a scratch the frame. You have to start with the slide stop partially inserted and rotated at a slightly lower than normal position and push upward and toward the center of the gun at the same time. The beveled surface should push the plunger in as the slide stop goes home. I have learned to do them fairly easily on most 1911's but I really like a trick I learned (can't remember where) where I cut a small v shaped notch in the slide stop with a fine triangular file at the exact position where the plunger strikes the slide stop, as if you were going to push it in at its correct position. The little notch serves as a guide for the plunger and you can just push the little rascal in place. You have to really understand how it works before you do any cutting so you don't mess up any critical surfaces. Some good news - since your gun is stainless, the scratches will be relatively cheap to remove and refinish. It's really a sandblasting job but a smith will do it at relatively low cost. A smith can also cut the groove for you. Till then, try the popsicle stick. Mikey [This message has been edited by Mikey (edited December 27, 1999).]