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Old December 18, 2011, 09:32 PM   #6
bedbugbilly
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Join Date: November 19, 2009
Posts: 3,287
I've used 3/4" and 13/16" across the flats barrels for constructing custom built rifles over the years. To answer the OP's question - the 3/" barrel will be lighter. If you are making a Southern Rifle - such as a Bean style, etc. - the 3/4" barrel is nice - it makes a nice sleek and light rifle. As far as ignition - it will work fine for either flint or percussion.

In regards to breeching the barrel - yes, you could use a patent breech OR a drum and nipple. I've always used a drum and nipple as most Southern style rifles used them. I've always preferred a "plainer" rifle and I once used a 3/4" barrel (42") with steel furniture - made my own ramrod pipes - no "entry pipe", no nosecap, no buttplate and a hand forged triggerguard that I bought from Myron Carlson years ago at Friendship. I did use set triggers and a very plain lock. No capbox (patchbox) but I did put a "grease hole" in the butt stock with a bone inlay around it.

If you are building your rifle from scratch - keep in mind how your are going to inlet your barrel. I custom ground moulding heads to match the various barrel sizes I used. If you use a 3/4" barrel, you can easily make your initial barrel channel cut with a carbide straight 3/4" router bit. This channel would be cut to the depth of the bottom of the side flats. You can then switch and use a 1/4" carbide straight bit and cut a channel in the middle of the 3/4" channel to the depth of the bottom flat of the barrel (3/4"). It is then a matter of taking what is left and with a chissel, bevel it off to 45 degrees to match the barrel profile. Depending upon the caliber I am making, I use either a 5/16" or 3/8" round nose router bit to cut the ramrod groove. I make a jig that will allow me to cut it so the bottom of the groove is parallel to the bottom of the barrel channel. I route this groove from the end of the stock to the forearm end where the entry pipe would normally be located. I then drill the ramrod hole with either a 5/16" or 3/8" bit that I had welded up. These bits are 4 feet long - made by welding a "center drill" on to the end of a piece of round cold roll. The bit lays in the routed ram rod channel with several wood guide jigs clamped to the stock to keep it straight.

I'm sorry that I can't post some photos but I've sold the rifles over the years. I used to pick up hand forged furniture from Myron Carlson when I went to Friendship but he passed away a number of years ago. He made some terrific buttplates, triggeerguards and end caps for Virginia and Bean style rifles. He sort of specialized in Bean style rifles and he built a number of them that were really pieces of art. He got bored and then began to build miniatures that were fantastic. I regret not stocking up on his furniture as I wish I had some now. I have a 3/4" barrel back in MI (I winter in AZ) that will eventually be put in to a Bean style rifle that will have a Persimmon stock.
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If a pair of '51 Navies were good enough for Billy Hickok, then a single Navy on my right hip is good enough for me . . . besides . . . I'm probably only half as good as he was anyways. Hiram's Rangers Badge #63
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