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birdshot · June 1, 2017, 09:07 PM

I have that rifle. I found a 5/8 flint worked well, padded with leather. I tried using lead to hold the flint but decided leather had a better grip. The biggest deal to me was keeping a sharp flint. I went through a lot of flints, but finally learned to knap my flints with a pair of utility pliers. Watch the angle the flint contacts the frizzen. You can adjust the angle with how far the flint is clamped in the jaws and the way you use the padding in the jaws. Lots of sparks is your friend.

I had trouble loading .490 with 0.018 patch. Went to a patch .010, soaked with bore butter, and loading got easier. You can load it with .018 but it is not as fun to shoot. I bought some .485 balls so I could use up the .018 patches. I drilled the flash hole out to 5/64 and seem to now have quicker ignition. I use 3f for the the main charge and the flash pan. I cut a finger from an old glove to place over the frizzen as a safety. Not having powder in the pan is not a reliable safety. I shoot mine mostly off hand at short ranges, since it is one of my favorite walk around guns.

I had trouble with flinching a first, the flash from the pan is distracting, practice with only powder in the pan, until you came aim through the flash.

Cleaning was chore of love when I first got the gun, taking apart the gun, Soaking scrubbing, drying, polishing, reassembly, it was not quick and repining the barrel was wallowing out the wood around the pins. I now use a commercial BP cleaning solution that cleans and protects, I rarely disassemble the rifle. Just use cleaning patches until they come out clean. Use a range rod, for cleaning. After cleaning the bore I use my air compressor for blowing any oil or gunk left in the breech. I do make sure the back side of the lock is mirror clean and well oiled. Use lubricants formulated for black powder, though I cheat some and use petroleum oils on the back side of the lock.

June 1, 2017, 09:07 PM	#4
birdshot Senior Member Join Date: January 17, 2008 Location: north platte nebraska Posts: 344	I have that rifle. I found a 5/8 flint worked well, padded with leather. I tried using lead to hold the flint but decided leather had a better grip. The biggest deal to me was keeping a sharp flint. I went through a lot of flints, but finally learned to knap my flints with a pair of utility pliers. Watch the angle the flint contacts the frizzen. You can adjust the angle with how far the flint is clamped in the jaws and the way you use the padding in the jaws. Lots of sparks is your friend. I had trouble loading .490 with 0.018 patch. Went to a patch .010, soaked with bore butter, and loading got easier. You can load it with .018 but it is not as fun to shoot. I bought some .485 balls so I could use up the .018 patches. I drilled the flash hole out to 5/64 and seem to now have quicker ignition. I use 3f for the the main charge and the flash pan. I cut a finger from an old glove to place over the frizzen as a safety. Not having powder in the pan is not a reliable safety. I shoot mine mostly off hand at short ranges, since it is one of my favorite walk around guns. I had trouble with flinching a first, the flash from the pan is distracting, practice with only powder in the pan, until you came aim through the flash. Cleaning was chore of love when I first got the gun, taking apart the gun, Soaking scrubbing, drying, polishing, reassembly, it was not quick and repining the barrel was wallowing out the wood around the pins. I now use a commercial BP cleaning solution that cleans and protects, I rarely disassemble the rifle. Just use cleaning patches until they come out clean. Use a range rod, for cleaning. After cleaning the bore I use my air compressor for blowing any oil or gunk left in the breech. I do make sure the back side of the lock is mirror clean and well oiled. Use lubricants formulated for black powder, though I cheat some and use petroleum oils on the back side of the lock.