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rifleman is correct , its all speculation without seeing the lock itself an working it so as to see what its doing .
a good flintlock is alittle more complicated then folks realize . The geometry has to be somewhat correct for it to work correctly . The farther away from correct that geometry gets , the worse the lock performs
OH and the frizzen screw on a siler comes from the inside of the lock , out through the frizzen and then taps into the frizzen bridle. Frankly unless the builder didn’t align the parts then drill the frizzen , I cant see how it would be drilled at an angle . Unless it was drilled while off the lock …
I would agree with the point about kit locks . Bud Siler used to sell such kits and if a person didn’t do the heat treating like he recommended , then the geometry could be off as well .
But again I would agree the lock needs to be looked at so as to be fixed correctly . Other wise you may just be chasing your tail
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