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Old July 22, 2008, 06:18 PM   #16
AK103K
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 1, 2001
Posts: 10,223
I tried to get Glock to do a couple of my non Glock pistols in their ttenifer finish, but they wouldnt do it. Its a great finish, even if I dont like the guns it comes on.

Hard Chrome is second. I've put a lot of hard miles on a couple of blued guns that rusted and were then hard chromed and never regretted it. Its tough stuff, but as WES said, you still do get rust. Its not a pitting type rust yo get with stainless, but more of a surface powder type rust. The usual place for it is under and around the grips.

Stainless isnt as durable as many seem to think, although it does offer better protection than blue and park in constantly wet and caustic environments, like a sweat soaked holster. You still have to stay on top of it though.

A good blue isnt realy all that bad, if you stay on top of it, and it sure can be pretty on a well prepped gun, something you dont usually see these days.

Park is pretty good, and tends to lend itself well to utility type guns, but as was mentioned, you have to keep it well oiled. It is a fairly easy finish for a home tinkerer to apply and get good results.

As far as paints go, I've been painting guns since the 60's, and any cheap old paint will work well at protecting the finish underneath. I've used mostly Testors model paints for most of the paint jobs, but I've also used gun type paints like Aluma Hyde II, with very good results, but they are not easily removed like the model paints. I've totally stripped the paint off a number of guns and repainted them more than once. I've also stripped guns that were painted for over 15 years and got constant use in all types of weather, and thet didnt have a spec of rust on them when it was removed.
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