Just goes to show that the "gunsmith" at DGW would rather sell parts or is totally clueless about this well known build problem. The point is, like Hawg said, the arbor should bottom out in the arbor hole and be under tension. This is what determines the barrel/cylinder clearance. You can either add material to the arbor or add material to the arbor hole to make it less deep. I personally like to leave the arbor as is and shorten the hole with a single spacer. Either way, you should have a repeatable setup that won't beat the wedge up. As an aside, I drill and tap the end of the arbor (all the way into the wedge slot) for a 1/4" X 28 set screw that acts as an adjustable wedge bearing. That allows the owner to adjust for any wear and or a preferred wedge depth setting.
Oh yeah, the wedge should be driven in under tension so the two assemblies will act as a single unit and you won't lose the wedge (finger tight won't get it).
Mike
Last edited by 45 Dragoon; January 4, 2021 at 09:01 AM.
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