Quote:
Originally Posted by Nodak1858
I have rust blued a number of long guns and hand guns. I striped the old finish, degreased the daylights out of the parts. Joints are tough where the barrel meets the receiver, or sights attached ect, have to work to get all the grease/oil off. Then I coat with Mark Lee Express solution, faster and has good results with it. I used to use the slow stuff but I haven't used it after the Mark Lee stuff. Then it's just like Scorch said, rust, boil card over and over. When I'm happy with the color I boil and extra long time at the end, then blow off the water and hose it down with WD40. Usually it ends up sitting overnight, I clean up tank and supplies and what not. Then I oil and clean it thoroughly, until the metal doesn't leave any color on the rag and then I'm done.
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Thanks NODAK1858-
I just received a bottle of Mark Lee's solution but haven't tried it yet. You and SCORCH have substantiated my process isn't in left field somewhere. I have found that an initial boiling of the parts will squeeze out oils that I wasn't able to get to by hand cleaning as well as stop the corrosion even in places I don't cover with solution such as inside receivers.
I've done several of these types of issues - mostly turned down by other "smiths" who are too busy or don't want to mess with a useless gun. If a customer's willing to pay for the work, and understands they aren't getting a new gun back, but one that will work and will look better than a rusted tucker, then so be it. This ultraslug is one that has shown this "re-rusting" issue after wiping down and considering complete. I don't want to assemble the firearm and hand it back if they get black hands from touching it.
I was questioning the solution, thinking maybe it had expired, and including myself as a possible variable.
Best of 2021 to all!