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Old December 24, 2020, 02:05 AM   #4
dyl
Senior Member
 
Join Date: October 31, 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,310
Okay. My terminology was off and I think it's made me difficult to understand.

Quote:
Take the cylinder out of the gun and watch the action of the bolt as you cock and uncock the hammer. The bolt should be protruding through the frame with the hammer at full cock and when the hammer is fully down. As you cock the hammer the bolt should retract into the frame at half cock and then pop back through the frame slot just before reaching full cock. You might have to carefully/slightly spread the "legs" of the bolt to make sure it is engaging the cam on the hammer or the cam is worn or defective.
Checked, everything seems okay there.

Quote:
First of all, the cylinder stop should not engage when the hammer is in half cock position, the cylinder must to rotate freely.
The cylinder stop or bolt (on my DA/SA S&W's, I think they're referred to as cylinder stops.) does not engage when the hammer is in half cock, so that's good. In half cock the cylinder spins freely in the clockwise perspective from the shooter's point of view, but can't rotate counter-clockwise. The angle of the hand and engagement surfaces in the rear of the cylinder face (ratchet star on a DA revolver?) probably prevent that.

The problem I have is *where* the cylinder stops in half-cock. I load it in half-cock and I have to carefully rotate/ advance the cylinder to right before I hear it click, before it reaches it's next stopping point. If i go a little bit too far and the revolver clicks, I'm in trouble because the cylinder has spun too far, the charging hole is no longer aligned with the ram rod, and I can't spin in reverse at all to give myself some clearance. Is this normal?
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