Mike, actually in person the rows of scallops look like rows of hexagons the ridges (for lack of a better word) between the hexagons is what really gives the gripping surface.
Dixie, that's done with a ball end mill, I'll reveal no more trade secrets.
Sevens I was not sure if you was asking me the questions but I'll answer them anyway.
Yes the receiver should be stripped of all parts before any work is done to it.
The reason for this is I have to put two thick plates on the receiver one on each side of the receiver, then I put a heavy mag tunnel filler in the receiver so nothing gets crushed when it's mounted in my milling vise.
Yes sir this is a paid service I offered for years but only on 1911 pistols.
I'm not sure my plates or mag tunnel filler will work with the Coonan Classic.
I will say one can grip my front strap treatment every bit as good as sharp 20 LPI checkering but yet it's not near as abrasive to the shooters hand or clothing.
I know this from years of experience of carrying and shooting 1911's in competition with sharp 20 LPI checkering.
I will also say, good machine checkering is actually better then the best hand checkering for the simple reason it's more precise with no overruns unless the mill operator falls asleep at the wheel, you can't beat a good mill for accuracy.
I could list names of smiths that claim to hand checker but in reality they farm the frames out to be machined checkered.
Best Regards
Bob Hunter