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Old February 23, 2013, 10:41 AM   #15
Senior Member
Join Date: November 18, 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 3,157
If adjustment is necessary, follow the steps outlined for the type of Nightforce riflescope you have. Due to the way the human eye focuses, best results are usually obtained by turning the eyepiece inward until the reticle is slightly blurred then moving it outward until sharp focus is obtained. Refer to Figure 1.

Now I am confused. For years the process I used for setting up scopes was to first focus the eyepiece. The way I was taught was to turn the eyepiece inward until the reticle was out of focus. The next step was to look at a neutral background and begin turning the eyepiece the opposite direction a half turn or so and to remove your eye from the scope. The idea was to present a sharp reticle when mounting the rifle so as to prevent your eye from "accommodating" the out of focus condition and introducing eyestrain.

As soon as the reticle was presented nice and sharp, lock the lock ring and then you could focus on the target and bring it into the focal plane of the reticle.

The side focus knobs work pretty well for me. The older Weavers I have had a focus ring on the end of the tube with yardage marked on them from somewhere around 50 yards to infinity.

When I used to hunt groundhogs with that scope, I would go to a prospective area and set my focus with the focus ring until the background was clear. I would then move my eye a bit sideways and up and down and look for relative movement between the greenery and the crosshairs. If I saw that, I would tweak the focus ring until it stopped but I did NOT adjust the eyepiece.

Today, most of my scopes have the focus on the side and my drill is to first make sure the reticle is clear, Then I dial in the magnification I want. My Nightforce is an 8-32 so there are a lot of options.

Once that is settled, I focus on the target and pay no attention to the range markers but as soon as the target is clear, I move my eye a bit side to side or up an down looking for that "relative" movement and adjust until it goes away or is minimized.

I generally start from infinity and work back until focus is achieved and go slightly past that point until the target starts to blurr and then go back in the opposite direction until a clear target is achieved and then quit.

I always try to take up any slop in the same direction. Learned that from over 40 years working in a metrology lab and playing guitar ( NEVER tune down to pitch. . .ALWAYS go flat and tune UP to pitch ).

Same thing occurs when adjusting the mechanical axis and optical axis of a theodolite or jig transit. You always want to be increasing tension on a screw adjustment for final tweaking to get all the slop out of the adjustments.

I think you are saying pretty much the same thing. If I have missed something, please feel free to school me. I am always ready to learn something new.

Carpe Cerveza
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