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Old January 19, 2013, 06:19 PM   #18
Rainbow Demon
Senior Member
Join Date: September 27, 2012
Posts: 397
This is why older, often shot revolvers have such smooth triggers.
And why some are complete wrecks with near irreplaceable parts worn past the carburized layer.
That "accumulated wear" as you put it, means all those parts that rub together as the trigger is pulled are polishing themselves. Years ago folks would suggest using tooth polish on those same parts while dry firing so they would smooth up quicker.
I've used gunslick black grease for the purpose, but followed the instructions and cycled no more than six times before through cleaning and re lubing with regular gun grease or oil.
I would then detail strip and clean again after first trip to the range and always found some residue I'd missed.


Over lubing any firearm can make them attract and hold dirt and grit also, creating just as much, if not more wear, than shooting them dry. No real reason to have the firearm lubed any differently when dry firing it than when shooting it normally.
True but "well lubed" does not mean sopping wet with oil, to me at least it means lubed properly and with fresh oil rather than oil thats gathered pocket lint and grit since last lubed.

There are conditions when no (oil or grease type) lube at all is best (for manually operated weapons), such as in a desert with windblown sand or high arctic where sub zero temps can congeal petroleum based oils.

In desert fighting troops sometimes covered the action of a bolt action rifle with a tube cut from a sock to keep out sand, and pistols were carried in a flap holster for good reason. Most sporting pistol holsters made for DA revolvers up through the 60's also had flaps to protect the mechanism from debris. A few service revolver holsters retained the flap as well.
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