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Old January 13, 2013, 02:31 PM   #39
Willie Sutton
Junior member
Join Date: January 26, 2012
Posts: 1,066
"The pistol runs smoother and the slide to frame fit stays snug longer because the slide is guided straighter back and forward on the guide rod, rather than depending so much on the frame rails for guidance"

<insert "this is to be taken with a sense of humor" here>


Thousands of 1911's have run millions of rounds of .45 without issues of "smoothness" or anything else using the basic as-built components.

In fact... probably the most reliable duty 1911's built have the following features:

SOLID bushings (no fingers to break)

Standard guide rods

Long triggers with the over-travel screw removed and thrown away.

And leave the rest alone.

(except for us unsafe old guys who black-tape down the grip safety before installing our grips. beavertail safety? Who needs a beavertail safety if you have black tape? )

"You can remove the entire slide assembly without taking anything down by just removing the slide stop but that's about all its good for."

I do that all the time with my EDC 1911A1, with standard length guide rod. Push finger against slide stop end, cycle slide, and remove slide stop. Wrap fingers around slide as you remove it to capture the spring. Assemble the old fashioned way (swing bushing aside, assemble without spring tension, compress spring, and rotate bushing to lock. No tools, instant, and can be done behind your back in the dark.


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