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Old November 25, 2012, 03:27 PM   #29
Senior Member
Join Date: September 22, 2011
Location: Middle America
Posts: 518
Put the rifle back together and verify that factory stuff works (well, cycles).

Start with a fresh case (what ever your source is - don't do anything to it). Will it chamber? It is a bolt action and the caming action should close on a fired case.
It will chamber - move on.
It will NOT chamber, why? Try a case from a round that was fired IN that rifle. Will it chamber? If not, something has changed since that round was fired. New ball of string to un-ravel.

Moving on from 'it chambers'.
Size 'IT'. Now will it chamber?
If not, pull the sizing die, take it apart and clean it, inside and out, stick it back together and follow the makers instructions for proper settings. Size a case. Will it chamber? If not, this is the most likely problem. If it does, move on.

Moving on from 'sized brass chambers'.
Check the case length. Trim if needed or you want consistency.
As you make dummy rounds (I do too), seat a bullet with NO CRIMP. Does it chamber? Is the COAL in specks? Is the ogdive of the bullet a 'fat' nose? Is there any marks on the bullet from rifling? It chambers. Now slowly set your crimp (I do very little crimping and then only with selected rounds loaded with hard to burn powder. This is one of those your decision type things.) Remember that a hard/heavy crimp can and will set back the shoulder causing the case to bulge, sometimes just enough to not allow the case to chamber, yet not noticeable. Only crimp on bullets that have canalures (the little rings cut in the bullet, a crimp on the body of the bullet is not advised).

From this point on, their are just too many minimal tweaks.

Hope this helped and you get going.


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