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Old September 10, 2012, 11:49 PM   #14
Senior Member
Join Date: November 18, 2010
Location: Orygun
Posts: 731
Pyro-P LIKES to be heavily compressed. I got the delayed ignition unless I packed the ball down FIRMLY with the rammer. Also when I stopped using a lube wad under the ball, that helped.
As for the cap jams: the first thing I would do is to fill in that little safety notch in the bottom of the hammer face. I clean mine out with a wire brush on my Dremel, spray it off with brake cleaner/Crud Cutter and hose it dry with canned air. Then I make a small dam with masking tape and pack the hole with J B Weld. After an overnight set I remove the tape and clean off the hammer face so as to leave a very slight depression in the surface of the fill where the notch was. You don't want it to bulge out. A chisel, file or screwdriver can be used to clean off the JB Weld then the Dremel with the rotary wire brush to finish it. What you are doing is eliminating the slot into which caps get wedged and are pulled off the nipple by the cocking of the hammer. As the hammer is pulled back the cap gets tipped off the hammer by the edge of the recoil shield and falls into the works. This simple fill will eliminate 90% of your cap jams. It means you cannot use the little pegs on the back of the cylinder to hold the hammer between chambers. You will need to carry it with 5 loaded chambers instead of 6.
With over 15 perCUSSIN' revolvers, I've been called the Imelda Marcos of cap & ball.
SASS#3302 (Life), SASS Regulator, NRA (Life), DGB#129
Wolverton Mtn. Peacekeepers (WA), former Orygun Cowboy (Ranger, Posse from Hell)
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