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Old May 7, 2011, 09:04 AM   #25
bedbugbilly
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Join Date: November 19, 2009
Posts: 3,290
beeswax toilet rings are not pure beeswax - they have additives. The last one I purchased, I had "sticker shock" as well. As Bill says, parafin will work as well. This really isn't "rocket science" or a "major job". As statded, if it's an antique or a fancy, carved, expensive horn - then I would think you'd want to use a "traditional" way of sealing it such as beeswax or brewer's pitch. If it's a cheapy, starter horn - then use a product that will seal it, won't be really "blaring" to look at and that will make it watertight/airtight. If the end plug is stained or even natural, a "putty stick" will work like you use in finish carpentry to cover nailholes. For no more beeswax than you'll need, you probably can go to a Joanne's Fabric or similar and pick up a small amount of it that is commonly used to wax thread in sewing. It is usually in a small "cake" within a plastic holder that has slots in it for running thread across before sewing such things as buttons on a garment. You can buy parafin at a grocery store or hardward store usually - if they sell "canning supplies". I at one time had over thirty original horns in my collection - dating from the early 1800s to the late 1800s. Some had turned end plugs that swere forced into the horns after they were boiled and the horn conformed to the plug shape. This method was pretty foolproof for making it watertight although over the years, the end plug might dry out and shrink. Others had end plugs that were cut to fit the horn's contour. It was very common to find these types of horns "sealed" with beeswax or pitch. Some of the horns I had were made for straps to carry them and others were "Day Horns" - smaller horns that were designed to carry enough powder for a day's hunt and they could be carried in a pocket or inside of a pouch. I'll also make the comment that "powder flasks" - metal flasks - are not necessarily "air tight" due to the "cut off" mechanism. A lot of the originals I've owned over the years had a tight fit at the cut off as the quality was much higher than the Italian flasks that are commonly sold today. I use a repro metal flask when I target shoot as it fits in my pouch well and I just like it. If I was going to be hunting or trapsing around in wet weather, I would use one of my horns that is airtight. A lot of shooters like the flasks and don't have any problems keeping their powder in them though even if the cut off is not 100% airtight. It's just a matter of personal preference. Good luck in getting your horn sealed up - seal it, forget about it, and enjoy your shooting.
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If a pair of '51 Navies were good enough for Billy Hickok, then a single Navy on my right hip is good enough for me . . . besides . . . I'm probably only half as good as he was anyways. Hiram's Rangers Badge #63
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