*Hoppe's Elite 44" Cleaning Rod...Epoxy Coated Stainless Steel...1 piece ***
***To answer Your question about wiping the "crud" off the rod, I do that because I've read alot of "Other Peoples' Opinions", stating they don't like Coated Rods "because" small particles of fouling can become imbedded, which can scratch barrel steel with successive strokes/passes.......Hmm....
***How is that completely true? Pretty much the only fouling is from Powder and Bullets...Those "bits" of fouling will scratch my bore now that they're loose? My OPINION on that is, that fouling is as safe as we all know it is (copper won't scratch steel), and it won't be any more harmful now that it's loose and stuck to the cleaning rod. BUT, considering that's just my OPINION, I wipe the rod every time it comes out of the bore, and I get the same discoloration off of the rod as I get on a patch that exits the muzzle.
*Hoppe's Elite Coated Rod (stated above) with Hoppe's Elite Handle. The Handle has Ball Bearings in it which allows it to rotate freely, as the brush and jag follow the rifling.
*Iosso Eliminator Brushes. Polymer/Nylon bristles on a Brass Core. I prefer these brushes, hands down, because the bristles are Non-Metallic and the cores are brass, which won't scratch, and these brushes are better resistant to solvents. ***Remember, it's the Solvent
that dissolves/removes fouling. Brushes help loosen fouling, and move the dissolved fouling so the Solvent
can better "take effect" on the fouling that's still there. ***Also, this is MY system of removing Powder
Fouling. Guys that shoot Cast Lead Bullets, may very well have a different system for removing that type of Fouling.
*Bore Guide. This replaces the Bolt of a Bolt Action FireArm, and Guides the cleaning rod through the bore, keeping the rod better aligned, and also helps keep solvents and oils from seeping into the Action. I use a Dewey Bore Saver Adjustable 13".
*Jags. Jags are threaded onto the cleaning rod and push patches through the bore. For my .270, I use a .270 caliber Parker Hale Style Jag, which is all brass and knurled, and has a blunt, rounded tip that doesn't pierce through the patch.
*Patches. I use Cotton Patches (cut to size). They're cheaper and tough. I use the cotton patches for MOST of the process, but the cotton will usually leave lint. I keep a small quantity of Synthetic Patches for the last few passes, as they tend to not leave lint.
*Solvent. I ONLY use Butch's Bore Shine.
These 2 Quotes are my posts on another Thread...
I use Butch's Bore Shine...ONLY...Nothing Less, Nothing More. Iosso Eliminator brushes, which are Polymer Bristles on a Brass Core.
I soak the brush with Butch's, make a few passes, soak the brush again, more passes. FULL passes, NOT back and forth within the bore with short strokes...From receiver to muzzle and back. I'll repeat this 4-5 times until I KNOW the bore is coated well and alot of the "loose" fouling is "DISlodged", and I'll let it sit for a few minutes, say 2-5 minutes, allowing the Solvent to Do It's Thing on the powder residue.
Pass a Solvent-Wet patch thru. That patch will be nasty. I let it set for 5-10 minutes. Another Solvent Soaked patch thru. 5-10 minutes again, I'll make about 10 passes with a Solvent Soaked Brush, 5-10 minutes, then a Dry Patch to remove what's been dissolved.
I'll repeat this until a patch comes out clean, with no blue residue.
Put in the time, You'll be very pleased. And once You get that rifle clean, it's much easier to maintain. I prefer to Bore Clean every 10-20 rounds, but that's just personal preference, and that's only if I have the time. At minimium, every 25 rounds.
After the Bore is free of copper fouling and no more blue shows on the patches, I run a Dry patch to remove most of the Solvent, then an Oil Soaked Patch, then a Dry Patch to remove most of the oil.
Also, work Your Solvent out of something. I work Solvent out of a Stainless Steel Kitchen Spoon Rest. The SS Spoon Rest is stable, plenty of space/capacity to work from. If You work Your Solvent out of the Original Solvent Bottle, dipping the Brush and/or Dirty Patches in it, You will weaken the Solvent.
This is My System. I get Second-To-None Results.
Also, keep Your Chamber clean and free of Oil. An Oily, Slick Chamber is Dangerous. Upon firing, the case expands (as we all know) and contacts the walls of the Chamber. If Your chamber is Oily, there won't be much (or enough) Friction to keep the case firmly seated against the Chamber Walls, and the Pressure will push the case back against the Bolt Face/Bolt/Action. In the more extreme cases/incidents, this can result/has resulted in the Shooter receiving a "shot" in the face, with the Bolt.
Stay Safe!!! And always be Meticulous!!! Details-Details-Details.