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Old September 11, 2000, 12:57 PM   #4
Senior Member
Join Date: February 12, 2000
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 1,124
You've got a pretty good grasp, with the advice you've been given above. Couple of notes. You're not belling the case mouth of the rifle cases, but actually performing 2 operations on the neck. Step one happens at the very top of the ram stroke, when the case neck is squeezed down below the minimum size necessary for bullet insertion. On the return stroke somewhere (depending on the die adjustment), you're pulling an expander ball or button back thru the newly squeezed case neck. It opens the neck back up to the appropriate diameter.

Priming brass is more of an art than a science. If you are using milsurp brass, the primer crimp may be swaged out, or reamed out with a deburring tool (another "nice to have", probably moreso than a puller). This will cause varying levels of pressure required to seat the primers. You'll get a feel for it. Like was said above, if you REALLY REALLY want a tackdriver, you might consider H335 powder and match or varmint bullets. They will usually be noticably more accurate.

Coupla tips. Midway is a great supplier for tools and bullets. (800) 243-3220 for a catalog. Dillon makes fine products as you've probably read elsewhere in this forum. The spray lube is wonderful for rifle cases. Military cases are cheap, but a real PITA for the accuracy buff. Keep an eye out in the gunshow for bulk fired commercial cases. Buy a bunch, sort by headstamp, tumble 'em, and then sort by weight. It'll help wring the last .05 moa from the group. Lotsa success, and don't hesitate to ask questions here. Email me if you need to.
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