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Old September 11, 2000, 09:43 AM   #2
Senior Member
Join Date: August 10, 2000
Location: WI
Posts: 1,309
1. You're right, carbide dies are only available for straight wall pistol cases. Lube is a fact of life with bottlenecks, I use Hornady One Shot spray lube.

2. Just make sure the primer is seated fully. If it's not, that's when you can have problems.

3. You already have that one figured out, all it takes is a little trial and error to get the best length.

4. The walls on Military brass are a little thicker so the internal volume is slightly smaller, and the primers are crimped in place. It can be reloaded, it just takes one more step. You have to swage the primer pocket to get rid of the crimp. Dillon has a swaging press for this purpose, or you could get brass from River Valley Ordnance, they have sized, trimmed, and swaged brass for sale, you can get them already primed too.

A couple of other items, usually the resize and deprime are one step. How do you plan on getting the primers out without sizing before you tumble the brass? I tumble the brass with the primers still in, and use a primer pocket scraper after sizing/depriming. You will also have to trim to consistent length and deburr your brass after sizing for the best accuracy.

There has been discussion in the past as to wether trickling to weight or just throwing the charge is more accurate. Depending on how consistent your charge dispensor is, and what powder you use, it could be more accurate either way, try both. I recently tried that test with Winchester 748 in 30-30 and moly coated Hornady #3035, and group size and standard deviation in velocity was smaller with thrown charges than it was with trickled. The opposite was true with Reloader 15 using the same primers, bullets, and gun. The only way to know for sure with your combination is to try both ways.

For the best accuracy, you want to have the bullet seated and crimped in two different dies. I can't say enough about the Lee Factory Crimp die, just get one.

On a final note, I know you said not to tell you to get a "how to" book, but all the good reloading manuals have a "how to" section, as well as data, like Hornady, Sierra, Lymann (for cast bullets). They are definately worth it, get a couple of them, and read them cover to cover.

"If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice"-Neil Peart
Vote in November.

[This message has been edited by bedlamite (edited September 11, 2000).]
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