Thread: linotype
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Old October 11, 1999, 09:31 AM   #7
Jack Straw
Senior Member
Join Date: July 26, 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 362

I had a few questions to come to mind when I read this. First of all, if the bullets don't reach full hardness for 24 -48 hours, how would the bullets be affected if they were sized and lubed in one step just after the water quenching (making sure they are dry of course)? Would they still harden to the same degree if sized while still relatively soft, or would sizing as such still negate the heat treatment? My curiousity just got to me on this one.

Also, why is it necessary to use a larger die to lube the bullets after treating them? Does treating affect the diameter, or is it merely a precaution to make sure the sides of the bullet are not touched (and therefore softened) by the die? I size my 44's to .430 and was just wondering if it is really necessary to buy a .431 die just for lubing. Of course, I could use my Lee sizer to size them at .429 and then lube at .430, couldn't I?

One more question. I have been using Lyman's numbers which state that wheel weights are approxiamately .5% tin. By my figuring, 2oz tin added to 8lb of WW yields a formula of about 94%Pb, 2%Sn, and 4% antimony. Is this correct or was my figuring flawed?


Upon re-reading this whole string, I see that I asked that last question in the initial posting...sorry bout that!

[This message has been edited by Jack Straw (edited October 11, 1999).]

[This message has been edited by Jack Straw (edited October 11, 1999).]
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