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Old November 24, 1998, 08:13 PM   #5
4V50 Gary
Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 19,338

Gun Doc George Stringer gave some good advice. I'd like to add my 2 centavos.

Walther Howe's book, "Professional Gunsmithing" shows how its done with wood blocks carved out to cradle the barrel in a vise (and drill rod inserted to support barrel walls) and a hickory hammer handle to unscrew the frame.

Now, with all due respect to Mr. Howe, I wouldn't use that hickory handle because I'm too concerned about tweaking the frame. Better to use that special revolver frame wrench from Brownell's (512-623-4000. Goes for $82.97, cat#080-850-004) before tackling that one. Not a cheap proposition at all, is it?

Other concerns are indexing the barrel correctly. You don't want the sights to be offset either to port or starboard (and I don't think any of our readers are into gang banging shooting styles) and you also have to ensure that the barrel/cylinder gap isn't too tight (can you say jammed?) or too great (can you say flash?).

If you want to do it yourself, I suggest you hold off until you can attend a NRA revolver gunsmithing class. They're inexpensive and fun! Check out their link which is accessible through this website. If you can't wait, find a gunsmith or send it back to the folks at Springfield.

By the way, there's only three good things about Springfield, MA:

1) S&W and their National Academy
2) Springfield Armory National Hist. Site
3) Indian Motorcycle Museum (next door to the S&W National Academy).

Boy, did I drift off or what?

4V50 Gary is offline  
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