View Full Version : Winchester 1300 ejector reassembly- HELP
January 2, 2002, 03:14 PM
Help with Winchester 1300- PLEEEEEASE!!!
I have just followed the directions carefully (; to diss/reassemble the 1300. Althought it warns not to cycle the action when the trigger assembly and barrel are removed, for fear of dislodging the ejector/ejector spring, i have managed to dislodge the ejector.
I tried "lining them up" and sliding the reassembled action back together, but it wont let the action cycle all the way back.
How do i re-assemble the ejector?
The spring is still sticking out the hole in the breech face. and the ejector "rod" is lined up with it, but does it go flush somehow with the breech face? does it hook on the bolt somewhere? etc.
Also, a fixed pin-like structure protrudes out from the side of the housing, black like the rest of it. It is in line with the ejecctor spring slot and ejector. Should the spring be on it, over it, or under it? should the spring be sticking out of its hole at all?
Where should the ejector bow be in relationship to this fixed pin?
Please give detailed yet "an idiot like Carl can follow them" directions?
January 3, 2002, 09:08 AM
Carl, get the bolt and slide assembly ready to install with the bolt just in the receiver a little. Put the tail of the ejector in the spring, the spring in it's hole and the little pin through the slot in the tail of the ejector. The curve of the ejector should be facing the ejection port. Then hold everything in place and install the bolt and slide assembly. George
January 3, 2002, 03:30 PM
I am starting to wonder if it may be the ejector retainer pin or ejector retainer screw, possibly come loose from the front. and thus the ejector wont stay in place and perhaps these samll bits have fallen into the slide/forend complex which is preventing its full movement AND preventing my removal of the bolt assy and forend.
When the bolt assembly and forend wouldnt come off initially, i didn't force it, figuring I can just degrease and dry it, then lube it up and be done with one less part to reassemble.
But now I may try to get it loose to see if I have small parts hidden within.
Anyone with more knowledge think this is a good idea?
Any tricks on getting the forend off?
January 4, 2002, 12:31 PM
Figured out the problem: i am missing the ejector retainer.
That "little pin" is the Ejector retainer pin (and it is now bent, and broken).
I have ordered the parts from Winchester/Brownell's, but...
How do i get the head of the broken ejector pin out?????
January 5, 2002, 08:02 AM
Carl, I've never had to replace one. But if a 1300 showed up in the shop today needing one replaced I'd call Brownells and ask thier tech support guys. I don't know if Winchester would answer a question like that or not but Brownells will. George
January 5, 2002, 11:45 AM
In lookig at the blow-ups on the usrac site, I see that the only shotgun with the ejector pin in the approximate correct place to match mine is the Model 1200, not 1300.
Yes, i bought it used from a friend. A steal at 100 with ammo, but as we've seen, missing a key part!
The diagrams differ by ONLY that the 1200 has an ejector retainer screw/pin, while the 1300 has the ejector retainer screw/pin AND and ejector retainer; that i can see.
perhaps Winchester had trouble with the 1200 because of my exact problem and upgraded to the 1300 to fix it- I wouldn't doubt it.
So now I still have to get the head of the ejector pin/screw out, and get it to work.
I wonder (if indeed the 1200 does NOT have the ejector retainer) if I can use the ejector retainer from a 1300 in the 1200?
If not, i may have to pay the big bucks to have Winchester fix it for me.
I can't seem to find any gunsmiths in the Wash,DC area. (Silver Spring, MD actually)
George, any more advice on do-it-yourselfing for this problem ?
January 9, 2002, 04:32 AM
Any helpful hints out there???
(well not really, but at an impass)
January 9, 2002, 08:11 AM
I don't have a 1200 in the shop right now to look at but I would imagine that these are staked in place. Winchester calls it a pin so it drives in and out. If you don't see any staking on the inside try driving it out from the outside inward. Don't get real heavy handed, just a rap or two to see if it moves. If it's real tight you might freeze the receiver overnight and let the steel parts contract away from each other then it might come out easier. If it's staked, the staking must be removed prior to drifting it out. George
January 9, 2002, 05:27 PM
Fixed it. thanks for al your help, guys and gals.
You know what really did it? The help with the pin removal and then downloading the manual for the model 1200 WW2 trench shotgun!
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