View Full Version : What lubrication under revolver side plate

August 3, 2001, 11:37 PM
About every 1000 rounds I remove the side plate on my S&W revolvers and clean underneath. I remove everything and clean thoroughly with WD-40. When I reassemble, I lubricate the parts with Hoppes gun oil. I am interested to know what others use to clean and lubricate under the side cover for long term use of their revolvers.

August 4, 2001, 08:47 AM
I coat all the lockwork with a very light film of Hoppe's Gun Grease, mainly for corrosion resistance, and then I lube the working surfaces with Tetra Gun Grease...that stuff is slicker than owl snot!

August 4, 2001, 09:30 AM
I use "Brownell's Action Magic" on all of my firearms moving parts.

Scott A. Vaughn

Mike Irwin
August 4, 2001, 02:07 PM
I NEVER get WD-40 near any of my guns. If you leave it in the gun, it will eventually turn to a sludge that is quite difficult to remove.

I clean using Hoppes or a similar cleaner, then lubricate with DSX Grease.

I don't like to use oil under the sideplates as oil rather quickly flows away from the areas that you want lubricated. Grease does a much better job of staying in place.

Chris Orndorff
August 4, 2001, 04:18 PM
One drop of lubricant on the hammer pivot, one drop on the trigger pivot, and one drop under the rebound slide.

August 4, 2001, 06:48 PM
Burnish some NECO MolySlide into the parts once and it will be many, many thousands of rounds before you remove that sideplate!

August 4, 2001, 08:17 PM
A gunsmith with 27 years cleaned the hi-tech grease out of one of my Smiths and asked,
"You don't put grease in your cars transmission, do 'ya?" ...dewey

Mike Irwin
August 5, 2001, 09:20 AM
"You don't put grease in your car's transmission, do you?"

Hardly the same thing, and it may be time to find a new gunsmith...

An automatic transmission sits in literally a bath of oil -- the transmission fluid.

The PRIMARY purpose of the transmission fluid is to remove heat, not to lubricate, which is one of the reasons why it's to thin. It's also quite thin because of the high-speed, close tolerance work done in the transmission.

If the internals of my Smith revolvers were part of a sealed system that would be filled with oil, got to several hundred degrees F, and begin to work at thousands of RPM, then I'll consider going over to oil.

Until then, grease stays put, oil doesn't.

Doug 29
August 5, 2001, 10:21 AM
Talk to the guys at Smith & Wesson, pard's. They will advise the "one drop of oil" practice as stated by Chris.

August 5, 2001, 10:34 AM
I use graphite grease. Never had a problem. I allways clean the gun after shooting.

It´s a matter of taste and trust !!!.

August 5, 2001, 12:16 PM
Egads man, stay away from WD40! Use Break Free CLP, G96 Gun Treatment, or Corrosion X. Rust is always your biggest enemy. No grease will penetrate and protect as well. www.break-free.com www.g96products.com www.corrosionx.com

August 5, 2001, 12:45 PM
Automatic transmission fluid is also (importantly) hydraulic fluid. Necessary for actuation of the clutch packs and servos.

I use Break free sparingly in some, RIG in some, and a MIL SPEC molly grease in others. Just a little. White Lithium seems to work quite well too.


August 5, 2001, 02:59 PM
WD-40 is great for removing rust, is it not? Well...I suppose that things haven't stayed the same the last 80 years, but at least some methods of bluing are chemically very similar to rust or corrosion. What I am asserting here is that WD-40 can harm bluing. I have read such in more than one place.

Does anyone have more detailed info on bluing techniques and the ramifications of using WD-40 on firearms?

Mike Irwin
August 5, 2001, 07:36 PM
I stopped listening to what S&W had to say about things a long time ago regarding maintenance; the same is true with a lot of mechanical products I have.

Often what the manufacturer recommends hasn't been rethought for years, or even decades, when it comes to things like this, and doesn't take into account new products, new technologies, etc.

The best, worst, and most blatant example of a manufacturer's "recommendation" is often found in the books that come with new cars...

Mine (ok, mine was new in 1991) states something to the effect of (the books in the car, I'm in the office), "Oil should be changed every 7,500 miles, the filter should be changed every second oil change."

Unh huh. I guess that's great IF you're Chrysler, and you're trying to sell new cars every 4 years.

Absolutely not going to happen in my garage. :)

Obviously, with a gun you don't have the same impact that you do with an automobile, but the point is valid.

August 6, 2001, 09:18 AM
When I have to do work under the sideplate, or when I do a periodic detail cleaning, I typically disassemble, clean, and degrease to remove old lube. After everything is dry and degreased, I'll wipe down each part, and the insides of the frame, with Eezox (I've also used TW-25B with satisfaction). I will then apply synthetic grease (RIG +P Stainless, Wilson's, etc.) sparingly to bearing sufaces like the rebound slide, sear, etc. I have never had a lube related problem, or corrosion, with this procedure.

Mike Irwin
August 6, 2001, 11:13 AM

Pretty much the same thing I do, except Eezox step. I just leave non-bearing surfaces dry.

August 13, 2001, 03:37 PM
I use a "home brew" of generic or regular STP and Marvel Mystery Oil in combination mixture to get the "right" viscosity. It works great. BTW, I use WD-40 to clean and compressed air to dry it out prior to lubrication.