View Full Version : One more 870 assembly question

July 25, 2001, 05:34 PM
I'm getting close to re-assembling my 870 project gun. I was fooling around with it last night, and couldn't get the front trigger group pin through the receiver. The rear pin went in very easily. Should the front pin push through as easily? Am I overlooking something? I didn't want to force it. Thanks for any suggestions.

More info: The trigger group was not taken apart. What's going in (or in this case not going in ) is what came out.

July 25, 2001, 09:45 PM
Look through the hole first, to insure that the holes line up. Try putting it in from the other side. The 870 uses small "C" type springs on the tubular bushings in the trigger plate, that serve to retain the action pins. Try giving the pin a tap with a screwdriver handle.

July 25, 2001, 10:08 PM
Dfariswheel: That was it. Apparently the front spring is a little tighter. Tapping it in from the left side worked. I swear I tried it at least 5 times without success earlier tonight. Geeez Loueeeez. I'm thinking of changing my posting name to Tim Allen (cubed). On a positive note, I'm almost finished.....with phase one at least. :)

Dave McC
July 26, 2001, 07:03 AM
ALL the 870s I've taken apart needed a little choogling to get the pins back in. It gets easier after a few times.I put the pins in from the left side, the one without the ejection port.

Coupla other things about cleaning and dissassembly-assembly...

The shell catches in the grooves on the inside of the receiver shouldn't come out when we take our 870s apart. Sometimes they do. As long as it's out, clean the groove out,usually there's a crud buildup.

I can count on my fingers the number of times it's been necessary to take an 870 bolt apart in the last 40 years. One should know how to, to replace a firing pin or spring. Otherwise,I flood with cleaner, shake dry, relube, shake dry and assemble.Keep the extractor hook clean,crud builds up here and can affect cycling if left alone.

For trigger groups, best to use a spray on cleaner, followed by a spray lube like Outer's.
Second best, Hoppe's #9 and a toothbrush,let dry. Follow with saturation with oil,drain,shake and blot dry.

Lubing is essential but play Karate Kid here, wipe on,wipe off. Excess lube+powder ash+dust+ pollen= crud,so use as little as one can and still get the surfaces covered. I'll admit to getting lazy, but some places are best served by a moly grease like Gunslick, while at others CLP,Slip 2000 etc, work fine. Use grease on the inside of the receiver itself, the action bars and bolt carrier block.I put a teeny bit on the sear itself, but this can lighten a trigger excessively.

And, for vent ribs, use a Q-tip, needle oiler, pipe cleaner saturated with oil, etc, to keep those little vents rust free. Rust almost always starts here, 'specially on waterfowling shotguns...