View Full Version : reducing recoil ?

February 3, 2001, 08:01 PM
I have seen some adds for mercury filled metal tubes that are supposed to reduce recoil. I don't completely understand how.

If just adding more mass is their angle why not put lead in the openings of the rear stock. This should give you the same effect of increasing inertia.

Any opinions?


February 3, 2001, 10:47 PM
The weight of lead or the mercury suppressor both help to counteract the effects of the recoil. The added bonus with the mercury is that it is a heavy metal and and the way it flows within the suppressor body when the firearm is fired helps to reduce the felt recoil.
Good Shooting To You - John K

Dave McC
February 4, 2001, 09:15 AM
JK's right, Curious. There's lots of old threads about cutting kick,a bit of research will show plenty of input.

The input I get about the mercury reducers is mixed. All agree that it does reduce recoil, but some folks are unsure as to whether it's greater a reduction than just adding the weight.

Others note that it changes the balance of the shotgun.

Also, you may want to check your form and stock fit also. Both of those can affect, not the kick, but how you feel the kick.

Also, if this is a sporting arm, rather than a serious one, consider the Rule of 96. The Brits thought that one up, that the proper weight of a field shotgun is 96 times the weight of the payload. If it's more, the gunner is packing too much weight, if less, he/she's catching too much kick. For example, a one oz payload should be fired in a shotgun about 96 oz,or 6 lbs in weight.

February 5, 2001, 03:35 PM
I put one of the mercury recoil reducers in my Remington 870.I don't feel it does that much.In my opinion the 3 most significant things you can do to reduce recoil in a shotgun are:
1.Install a GOOD 1" pad,like the pachmayer decelerator.
2.Have it ported
3.shoot low-recoil tactical loads

With all the things I've experimented with,I think the single most significant improvement to recoil on almost any long-gun is a premium recoil pad.Its also the cheapest modification.(about 50-65 bucks)

February 7, 2001, 12:47 AM
Good point Erick,I forgot to mention that with my little list.Louis Awerbuck reccomends that a tactical stock be a little short.That makes it a little faster to engage targets.To compensate for the shorter L.O.P,make sure you place your thumb on the SIDE of the grip,don't wrap it around the grip like you normally would.That way you won't end up your thumb jammed in your nose every shot.

Dave McC
February 7, 2001, 08:01 AM
Erick, and the other one is _____?....(G)...

As for stock length on serious shotguns, I'm in accordance with Mr Awerback. By the classic standard, I should shoot a stock of about 15" pull. The Standard 870 stock works fine for me, possibly due to long usage, and I can work with the Youth stock with its 12 1/2" pull. IMO, better a little short than a little long.

However, I disagree with the side of the stock thumb hold. Giving up control is not the answer. Learning to shoot with a short stock w/o bopping one's schnoz is.

Jeff, CA
February 7, 2001, 11:45 AM
At the range this weekend, I was shooting some 2 3/4" standard velocity slugs thru my 590 with bantam buttstock. I'd never noticed it before, but the fingertips and fingernails of my firing hand were hitting my lower lip on recoil. BTW, I've also been taught not to wrap the thumb around the grip. The tang safety on the Mossberg takes care of this automatically. It's not exactly a thumb-along-the-firing side hold, it's a thumb-along-the-centerline hold.

February 8, 2001, 07:14 PM
I added a pound of shot to the stock of my Winchester 1300 which helped. Alot of it is your stance like Erik said.