View Full Version : Bedding materials... and how to bead

March 13, 2014, 10:13 PM
I have a Ruger 77/22/K Hornet with a factory stock I would like to bead. A) I figure on opening up the forearm to barrel about the amount of the thickness of a nickel dose that sound like it would be enough? B) Is there a bedding material that would be preferred to isolate vibrations?... C) What bedding process would be preferred? D)To perform the job properly is there anything to be aware of?

big al hunter
March 13, 2014, 10:54 PM
Get a bedding kit like this http://www.sportsmanswarehouse.com/sportsmans/Miles-Gilbert-Bedrock-Epoxy-Bedding-Kit/productDetail/Gunsmithing/prod70976/cat110179
Then watch a few you tube videos. Then follow the directions in the kit. Do not use clamps or anything similar to hold the action to the stock, it creates pressure points. Use surgical tubing that comes in the kit.

March 14, 2014, 04:56 PM

March 14, 2014, 05:05 PM
The link provided by tobnpr is excellent advice.

I recommend "pillar bedding" for best results.


...bug :)

March 14, 2014, 07:37 PM
tobnpr I seen that video and I like all the good detail. I was considering opening up the barrel channel with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel instead of Midways rasp. I found that Hogue makes some real nice bedding block rifles but not for my Ruger 77/Hornet. Thanks guys

March 14, 2014, 08:47 PM

Any quality bedding job should not be viewable unless the rifle's stock is removed - a nonstarter if the barrel channel is simply reamed/sanded/rasped larger w/o taking care to restrict such enlargement to areas below the stock's top line.

(IOW, the top edges of the stockwood should appear to almost touch the metal, with no thin layer of cured bedding material visible)


Bart B.
March 14, 2014, 10:14 PM
Devcon plastic steel and Bisonite are popular in match rifles.

The article is good except the only time I've had vertical shot stringing was with a bedding pad under the chamber area as shown in that article. If there's bedding there, any pressure on the bottom of the stock fore end transfers to the barrel.

I think epoxy needs to be 1/10th inch thick around the receiver. And at least 1/16th inch clearance between the barrel and fore end tip.

March 16, 2014, 05:26 PM
(IOW, the top edges of the stockwood should appear to almost touch the metal, with no thin layer of cured bedding material visible)

And, this reason for this, is?

While I suppose the bedding material can be "stopped" short of the top end of the stock for aesthetics if one desires (IOW, stop the wood relief for the epoxy short of the top line of the stock), are you implying there's some sort of negative in allowing some thickness of epoxy along the mid-line of the receiver at the top of the stock?

I'd actually like to know how you'd accomplish this. Where's the "gap" to allow the excess epoxy to escape when the action is pressed down into the stock?

Bart B.
March 16, 2014, 09:28 PM
Most folks want that "perfect fit" appearance of stock to barreled action. A thin line of off-color epoxy is not good looking.

Unlicensed Dremel
March 17, 2014, 09:11 AM
topnbr, that's a great link, thanks.

But I don't understand why the guy puts "two layers of masking tape" round the outside edges of the lug (bottom and sides; not front and back). That tape just takes up space which is going to leave empty space for the rifle to move in, once removed. Release agent works fine. I'm sure there's a reason, but I don't know what it is.

Bart B.
March 17, 2014, 01:00 PM
I put tape on the recoil lug's bottom and front so the barreled action's easier to remove. Just push back on on the barrel when tightening the stock screws. Most of the force is backwards so a space on the lug's front is a non issue for constant fit.

In the beginning, when someone created epoxy bedding, the thoughs were to make full contact with everything. But full contact around some recoil lugs proved not a good idea; the bedding compressed the wood in front of and behind it "walking" out the barreled action. Solution was to make 1/32 inch space between the front and bottom of the lug and the bedding. But the sides were another issue.

Round receivers had little to keep them from twisting from barrel torque with heavy bullets shot fast. Remington's were nororious for this. 30 caliber magnums on Remington actions would shoot loose in a couple hundred shots but rebedding fixed it; time after time after time.... Some folks tried 2 inch long recoil lugs but that didn't help much. So they put square bottom/sided sleeves on them. Pillar bedding helped when it came about.

March 18, 2014, 10:16 PM
I use Marine-Tex Grey when I bed my rifle.

March 19, 2014, 12:24 AM
AcraGlas is still one of the best.Also available -in Gel version. Good shelf life and certainly good life in use .Some of my rifles are 40 years old with AcraGlas.
I don't understand why anyone would use both glass bedding and pillar.