View Full Version : Barrel threader

February 4, 2013, 03:47 PM
I hail from Kansas and am lookin for someone to thread a 700 sps tac for a brake. Anyone got any local suggestions?

February 4, 2013, 08:12 PM
If you cant find a smith local any good machine shop should be able to do it. Get your break and take it with you. depending on the cal. it will be 1/2x28 or5/8 x 24 unless you have something larger than 30 cal.

February 5, 2013, 10:13 AM
Anyone have any experience with these brakes?

February 6, 2013, 01:56 PM
I have done a bunch of them, but I am in Los Angeles, not Kansas.
You will probably end up having to send it off to someone.
Beware of local machine shops because while they might do the job, it might not be correct if you don't tell them everything that needs to be done and what is important.
The threads need to register off the center of the bore, not the outside of the barrel.
They most likely won't have an action wrench to pull the barrel, or a back-side spider on the headstock, or a headstock short enough to hang the barreled action out the backside of the headstock.
If they shove a center into the muzzle, make sure they re-cut the crown afterwards.
A proper gunsmith is the way to go as they should understand all the pertinent details.

February 8, 2013, 11:47 AM
Any one used muzzlebrakesandmore . Com?
I've found some one to thread the barrel. Now just to choose a brake.

February 8, 2013, 12:43 PM
Anyone have any experience with these brakes?

Yes, I just recently put a brake on my 300 WM. It was so effective I decided to put one on my 375 H&H.

THEY WORK. They do reduce recoil dramatically. My 300 WM has a heavier brake and its not much worse then my 257 Roberts in the recoil department.

I put a smaller brake (not so heavy duty) on my 375 because I didn't want to add a lot of weight since its a hunting rifle. It now recoils about like a 30-06.

Even on lighter rifles like 22s, 223s, etc they work, they eliminate a lot of muzzle jump.

You will need to make sure you wear ear protection, which would be stupid if you don't use them with or without brakes.

The brake is going to come with a small hole which should be enlarged for your caliber when its installed. That makes sure its lined up with the bore.

Make sure you tell your gunsmith to bore it .20 over size. Meaning if you are putting the brake on a 308 it needs to be bored .0328. Larger is OK, but never smaller. Screws up your accuracy when the bullet bounces off the side of the brake.

Some smiths will try to bore the brake smaller, DON'T LET THEM, go with the Brake Manufacture recommendations.

Like I said, they work, now I'm lining up more of my rifles for brake instillation.

February 8, 2013, 11:17 PM
Thank you bud. I plan on gettin one next check.

February 9, 2013, 03:00 PM
I think Kraig typo'd and meant 0.02" over, so his second number is correct.

February 9, 2013, 08:23 PM
I think you are right. .02 over bore, so for a 308 it should be .328.


4V50 Gary
February 10, 2013, 10:26 AM
I'd send it to Trinidad Colorado for the gunsmithing school's machine shop instructor to do. I've seen a rifle he put a muzzle brake on and it was hard to see where the brake began and the barrel ended. PM me if you want his contact info.

Hunter Customs
February 10, 2013, 11:36 AM
I hail from Kansas and am lookin for someone to thread a 700 sps tac for a brake. Anyone got any local suggestions?

If you are anywhere near Olathe Kansas check out Simmons Gun Repair phone number (913) 782-3131 website www.simmonsguns.com they can put on a brake for you.

Best Regards
Bob Hunter

February 11, 2013, 09:56 PM
I use a rifle builder who both makes the brake and installs it.