View Full Version : ? how to spot authentic Rock River parts ?

January 11, 2013, 02:31 AM
I just supposedly bought a 0550 Rock River upper 20" varmint. Its supposed to be a 1:8 twist. I'm trying to confirm w/in myself, that this all what it was advertised to be.
I see nothing engraved on the barrel. The aluminum forearm tube is still on, but w/ a flashlight, I see no engraving or any marks. I took the bolt out, and see no marks or engraving on it. So how can one tell authentic parts from not? The only ID I see is on top of upper receiver, it says rock river arms. ??

January 11, 2013, 03:09 AM
Can't on most. Many small parts will be outsourced anyway. You don't think RR manufactures every part in their guns, do you?
Little late to be worrying about it after buying the upper.

January 11, 2013, 08:07 AM
Could be anything from what's advertised to a basement bubba build. Even if you see a rollmarked barrel ID, that might be the only part that actually came from that maker. I've got a couple of AR types that have Colt rollmarked barrels. That's the only Colt made part on the entire upper and it was a takeoff hand-me-down.
If you don't/can't believe the seller's descrption and will be disturbed by the possibility that it's false, don't buy.
For those with "logo ego", just tell your buddies it's whatever you want it to be since darned few could tell the difference anyway.

January 11, 2013, 01:33 PM
jeeez, let me shorten and rephrase the question for those who need it. How would one identify Rock River parts as being authentic.
example : if I were to buy a tapered bearing for the front wheel spindle of my car, and it said Timkin, on the side. I would then feel safe w/in myself, thinking I had a authentic Timkin bearing.
example: if RRA used Wilson barrels, I'd think a reputable manufacturer would mark the barrel in some way.
Now, If you think any part of my question is out of line, just please disreguard it and quietly move on. thank you

January 11, 2013, 01:39 PM

I don't think anyone is trying to pull your chain. Manufacturer's marks are not on every part. You just don't always know.

As a matter of fact, Just because you see "Timken" on a bearing does not mean it was made by Timken.

The government has been burned more than once by installing knockoff bolts and screws on military products because they got a "good" deal from a "new" supplier.

It happens. The best you can do is try to identify the products you buy. There is no guarantee.

January 11, 2013, 01:43 PM
How bout a pic of the thing

January 11, 2013, 01:58 PM
RRA uses wilson blanks....their barrels HAVE RRA markings.... someplace. All of mine are marked about an inch in from to the chamber on the top of the barrel. The Free float tubes are not marked RRA, as most of theirs equipped on complete uppers are either houge or surefire (unless its the operator series, which it will be obvious that it is a RRA forearm by it's design).

The BCG and other small parts will not be marked on RRA on the parts as most (if not all) small and internal parts for most AR15 "Manufacturers" are manufactured in the billions by four or five major places and purchased by different vendors. You RRA may very well have the same manufacture FA assembly as a Delton, BCM, double star or colt.

January 11, 2013, 02:36 PM
I have Smith M&P15T that I converted to 300BLK the barrel was bought at PSA, but actually made by FN.... I am so confused should I say I have a Smith 300BLK a PSA 300BLK or a FN 300 BLK for me I could care less it shoots like a dream and has zero malfunctions. My point is I don't believe there is a AR maker out there that makes all of the parts that go into there AR.

January 11, 2013, 03:14 PM
Let me expand the answer for those (you) who need it.

Makers, even the better known ones like Colt, outsource many AR small parts.

50 miles from my house is a plant that used to be one of TWO lower receiver manufacturers for a name brand located 2000 miles away that I won't mention. The contract buyer would then do their own stamping when they built the guns in their own plant.

Makers simply don't build every part themselves in an AR.
Depending on who & what, they may buy in bulk from a parts vendor to generic specs, or contract with the small parts maker for their own specs.
You don't know who made what on ANY AR right down to the last pin, and there's no such thing as "authentic" to RR or any other maker across the board as far as parts go.

RR may make some or may make many of their own parts, but there are very few makers who label parts such as bolts, carriers, and so on. BCM is one exception I'm aware of.

Even a maker's stamp on an AR part does not guarantee that maker actually made it.

Your upper could exist now as it came from the RR factory, or it could contain replacement parts.
In many of those, there is no way to confirm by looking at them.
In some, I doubt even RR couldn tell you.

January 11, 2013, 04:02 PM
If it said Rock river on the side I'd be content. Go shoot it and see what happens. If it shoots well, who gives a Rock River about who's parts are in it anyway?

January 11, 2013, 06:06 PM
I've heard that Daniel Defense and S&W make most of the metal parts that go in their ARs, even springs and pins. They outsource the plastic parts. They are the exception though, most other AR builders outsource the metal parts too.

Definitely function test the upper and hopefully it will test out well.

January 11, 2013, 06:34 PM
If it works as you expect it to and it was sold as such, I'd take it at face value. There should be a way to check the twist rate.

January 11, 2013, 11:03 PM
Well I thank you all. I still need to find and wait for a few more parts, then do like you say, go fire it. I'll probally have other questions about putting this thing together before I get it put together. I was figuring someone like BerdannSS would come along, and Quentins answers are always good. When I do get it put together, I'll put a pic on here. :)

January 12, 2013, 01:16 AM
Most barrels do have the twist marked but if this one doesn't you still can find out with a cleaning rod/patch. Put the cleaning rod (without patch) in from the muzzle and let it clear the chamber then put the patch on. Pull the rod toward the muzzle until the patch clears the chamber and is in the rifling a couple inches then wrap a piece of tape around the rod as close to the muzzle as you can. Leave a single tab of tape sticking out or draw a mark on the tape then pull out the rod a few inches, watching for the tab or mark to rotate as the patch in the rifling forces the rod to turn. Continue pulling out the rod until the mark makes exactly one revolution. Measure the amount of rod that was pulled out of the muzzle. Eight inches is 1:8" twist. Nine would be 1:9".

You may have to repeat this a time or two until you get the hang of it.

Metal god
January 12, 2013, 05:40 AM
And now you know why I like mil-spec . Good or bad at least you know what your getting :)

January 14, 2013, 02:25 AM
There are knock off's in almost everything, some don't matter, like purses, some do, like engine or gun parts, or bolts, etc. A friend of mine recently bought some connecting rods for an engine he was building. They were phonies, they looked great, as good as the real ones, but one of them broke before the engine had 2 hours on it. A little detective work showed they were pure crap. I recently bought some Magpul BUS's that are almost certainly fakes, but the appear to be as well made as the real ones a friend has, and I don't have any real concern about using them, as they are back ups for my scope anyway. As long as they don't fly apart, they should be ok.