View Full Version : Romac flash hider ?

Rainbow Demon
September 28, 2012, 07:01 AM
I have a Romac with the usual problem of canted front sight base.
The problem is that this particular rifle has the cut off flash hider (forming a barrel nut) welded to the sight base with a thick bead in the clearing rod track. The weld doesn't obstruct the end of the rod, but would make any effort to straighten the front sight base difficult.

My question is whether this weld goes on through to the barrel?

This particular rifle is uncomonly accurate for the type, so I suspect the weld didn't touch the barrel, or at least not enough to heat the barrel steel much.

I'd like to remove this barrel nut and preserve as much of the threading as possible.

Another question, would there be any legality issues if I installed a flash hider or muzzle brake?
I'd just as soon find a better looking barrel nut, a flash hider isn't that important for my purposes.

While the magazine that came with the rifle was a very loose fit a spare mag that came with it fits just fine with only a tiny amount of wiggle. I figure the magazines are the problem there rather than the mag well.
Looks like they may have scrubbed the side plates of the mags to remove markings, leaving them a loose fit.

September 28, 2012, 05:25 PM
I have an early WASR that has the welded on nut, and yours sound just like mine by your descrption. I never bothered to remove it, as Ive heard that some have no threads under the nut at all. My WASR's sights where nice and straight, and it also came without a hint of trigger slap, unlike my SAR.

My SAR's front sight has a slight cant, but it doenst affect accuracy, and both it and the WASR are very good shooters, and on par with other AKs I have that cost twice the money or more. The SAR has no threads at the muzzle.

You can remove the nut and add a brake or flash suppressor with out issue now. Ive done it on a couple of AK's, as well as a couple of AR's that were of the "ban" era. The AK's were just crappy welds (not like the WASR's weld though), and came off pretty easily, the AR's on the other hand, were blind pinned and welded, and a good deal more work. I suppose the only thing thing that may be an issue, is what your state laws are, or if the barrel is shorter than 16", and the muzzle device on there is permanently attached to make it legal. Not an issue in your case, but it can be with some guns. My Krebs AK103K is an example there. It has a 14" barrel with a permanently attached brake.

The magazine issue is a common one, and all my AK's have it at some point, depending on the mag in the gun. One mag will wobble in one gun, and not in another, and the "dimples" arent the issue. I guess its just what it is. Its never been a problem with reliability, and wobble or not, the guns shoot just fine.

Rainbow Demon
September 29, 2012, 02:38 AM
Thanks for the reply.
My front sight is canted far to the right, so I pushed the post over as far to the left as it can go and that put the POI dead center.

Funny thing that due to the curve of the sight ears the post being that far to one side doesn't really detract from the sight picture that much.

Accuracy was very very good, though I've only fired a few rounds at close range the bullets all went in one ragged hole not much bigger than bullet diameter.
I figure it should be good for 2-3 MOA at worst and probably much better.

No problems with functioning at all, the action seems to be slick and smooth, no hang ups on the hammer as some have reported.
Trigger pull is very long but very smooth, as it should be for safe carrying with rifle at the ready, no getting bumped or tripped and the gun going off unintentionally.

I've fired AK rifles before and was not impressed, but this rifle is unpretentious and delivers better performance than expected. I'm pretty much pleased with it, and the only thing I'd need to be perfectly satusfied with it would be to take the cant out of that sight base.

My lower has the scope mount base riveted on.
Any idea where I can find the rest of the scope mount for one of these?

September 29, 2012, 07:56 AM
The front post not being centered drives me nuts. I had one AK that was like that when zeroed (the front sight wasnt canted), and I ended up putting a RPK windage adjustable rear on it, which solved that problem.

While Ive never done it, but from what Ive read, if youre the least bit handy, it doesnt look all that hard to straighten the front sight.

The triggers on both my SAR and WASR were good from a shooting standpoint, especially when compared to standard AR triggers, although my SAR's trigger did have a good bit of "slap" that couldnt be filed out, and was replaced because of it. I did try a Tapco G2 trigger on my WASR after hearing a lot of good things about them, but I must have got a bad one, as it was not near as nice as what came with the gun, and I actually thought it was unsafe.

Ive shot AK's with side mounts and personally didnt like them. They put the optic to high for comfortable/natural shooting for me. I have heard they do have a one now that sits a lot lower, but I havent seen or tried it. Youre best bet here is to probably ask a specific question related to the side mounts and see what others have found to work best.

My favorite mount for the AK's is the Ultimak rail that replaces the upper hand guard. They are very well made, and it allows you to mount a red dot low enough to get it to cowitness with the iron sights, and makes shouldering and shooting as fast and natural as shooting with the iron sights.

This is my SAR with the Ultimak and an Aimpoint ML2 mounted...


October 14, 2012, 02:26 AM
I just traded into a ‘new’ 2008 WASR-10/63. Just the basic Romanian AK, made in the same CUGIR toaster factory where my old SAR-1 was built. It has the plain, threaded muzzle with a nut on it. The wood on the WASR is uglier than that which came on the old SAR-1’s.


The WASR’s G2 trigger is infinitely better than any SAR I ever handled. Five times over the RCBS trigger pull gauge reveal it to be a consistent four pounds. If you can finesse a trigger, it is two-stage. The first stage takes just over three pounds to 'set' and the final stage is the other pound, which feels like nothing after you've completed the first stage. The final stage could be crisper... I'll look at it after it wears in and see what can be done about that.

The first outing proved the rifle plenty accurate for an AK, putting three shots of Wolf FMJ in just over a half-inch at 50 yards- the G2 trigger really helps. The problem was that the POI was five inches to the left, at the limit of sight adjustment. So I knocked the pins out and straightened the FSB out. This of course involved cutting the muzzle nut weld, a simple matter with a fine Demel cutting wheel. Folks, that Front Sight Base was ON there! It took PB Blaster & creative block and punch work to get it moving. I ain't bitching though... had to light a torch to move the FSB on the old SAR.

After squaring up the FSB, I centered the front sight and slogged out in a downpour to confirm the windage correction. At 110 yards I fired three shots, two of which landed in a 5" bull. Therein lies the beauty of the AK. I had no problems with optics loading up with water, compromised iron sight co-witness, etc. Just blow the water out of the sight notch and keep on hammerin’.

There was just enough barrel showing through the holes, after the adjustment, that re-drilling was in order. I hogged the FSB holes with a 7/64 bit, cleared the proud barrel material and got a good snug drive-in with the OEM pins. While I had it apart, I also re-crowned the muzzle with a fine silicon ball and finished it off with some 400 grit silicon carbide paper. Most Century AK muzzles look pretty awful and this one was no different. I’ve re-crowned several now and in every case, accuracy improved 70-100 percent.