View Full Version : Non-destructive method for removing AK slant brake

August 11, 2012, 06:00 PM
I'd like to replace the slant brake on my AK with an M16-style brake. I've done some research and depending on how they are attached a variety of techniques (soaking in Kroil, heat, Dremel, etc.) are used to remove them. Mine appears to be secured with not one but two welds, one on each side of the brake (see pics below). I don't own a Dremel and would rather not invest in one unless necessary. Are there any favorite tricks for getting these welds loose, or is it a matter of grinding them off with the Dremel tool? I'd like to NOT scar the front sight if possible.



August 11, 2012, 07:03 PM
The sight is already scarred.

One method I used on one occasion was to use my jeweler's "wire" saw with a fine blade to cut the weld.
In that case, the weld was soft enough to allow the saw blade to cut through.

You can buy these saws and the blades in a wide range of thicknesses from jeweler's supply houses.
Your better option is a Dremel type tool.
You might check with tool rental companies to see if one rents flex shaft tools.

Saw frames:


Blades. I usually used the 3/0 size for most of my work. These break VERY easily but the better quality types will cut like nobodies business in some fairly hard materials.


August 11, 2012, 08:07 PM
Thanks Dfariswheel, sometimes it just takes another pair of eyes to point out the obvious. I do have a bench grinder, so I was able to flatten the welds to the point where I could make a fairly controlled cut on each side with a hacksaw blade, and when the weld was thin enough I was able to break it with a pair of pliers on the slant brake and unscrew the brake. No damage whatsoever to the threads.

I'll need to touch up the remaining weld with a file and then apply some paint to head off any corrosion issues, or maybe try a little cold bluing. I'll post pics when it's done, I think the new brake is going to look nice.

August 11, 2012, 10:55 PM
A little Aluma-hyde II (properly matching of course) might be in order for that touch up, spacecoast. It is tough enough for what you have to do (fairly resistant to solvents) and should "fill up" the slight depression that you have afterwards.

Man, I hate it when they weld stuff like that! :mad: Very unseemly.

Good luck. :)

August 11, 2012, 11:26 PM
I did pretty much what you did spacecoast, to get the welded muzzle nut off my WASR. Had to go very carefully at the end with the hacksaw to avoid damaging the threads. Then went with a Tapco flash hider that works well. Never did touch it up but then what the hey, it's a WASR! :p

I thought about using the A1 birdcage FH but the RPK style looked more appropriate.

August 12, 2012, 10:25 AM
it is welded on how long is that barrel?

August 12, 2012, 11:37 AM
It's 16.5", so legal with or without the brake.

The cold bluing seemed to work very well, the color matches and it's just a bit shinier than the surrounding finish.


August 12, 2012, 11:44 AM
Try some good quality flat black lacquer to touch up those spots. A bit crude, perhaps, but effective.

August 12, 2012, 05:20 PM
You can remove them with a fine hack saw blade without causing much damage at all. You can use some Aluminum black on the shiny spots and it will match up pretty well.

August 14, 2012, 06:13 PM
Nice job, spaceman! That little imperfection is hard to see after your work. :cool:

I could never get used to the look of a birdcage on the end of a '47- it's like an unholy union of gun parts that was never meant to be. :p