View Full Version : Getting lazy & Curious if its been tried?

Sure Shot Mc Gee
February 25, 2012, 11:52 AM
Has anyone tried using Triple 777 2FF (loose) in a Traditional style rifle? Or is there a Thread already written I could go too that would answer my questions? Reason being: I'm getting to hate the job of cleaning up my T/C 54 Hawken in the evening time after a long days shooting session. I normally use Gorex B/P or Pyrodex RS powders. I've heard that there would be a problem with ignition. But, with a musket cap set-up installed? Do you think the problem would still exist? Any thoughts from you folks to cure my curiosity? would be appreciated. :) thanks to all, SSMcG

February 25, 2012, 12:31 PM
I used to use it in a percussion rifle and it was fine.
It didn't seem to produce quite the accuracy as Pyrodex, for some reason, though.
But it still needs to be cleaned out as it causes rust, too.
I inadvertently left a revolver a little too long after using 777 and it was a rusty mess, about the same as it would have been with BP or Pyrodex.
Surprisingly so.

February 25, 2012, 12:51 PM
Oops, forgot to mention that the loads were on the light side, for target matches, and not hunting, with .45 caliber ball and patch.
Also, the powder was not compressed much.
Just a light tap when the ball and patch was seated.

Sure Shot Mc Gee
February 25, 2012, 01:57 PM
Question please: Did you have difficulty with its ignition using a #11 type cap?

February 25, 2012, 05:24 PM
Danged if I can remember what size cap it took.
It was a loverly Thompson double trigger target model, with vernier rear sight and globe front.
It was quite awhile ago and, like a big dummy, I sold the rifle.
(Fill in sounds of head repeatedly hitting wall).
I do remember, however, that the load was 45 grains, and only lightly compressed.
Something about 777 requiring some air space between the grains for effective ignition, maybe??

February 25, 2012, 08:03 PM
777 has a higher ignition temperature than real black powder. However, ignition problems in percussion guns using regular percussion caps are rare (flintlocks are another matter - 777 is not recommended for use in flintlocks). If your gun is a percussion ignition system you should have no problems using regular percussion caps, but if you do they will be easily remedied by using magnum caps (not musket caps, which require a different nipple).

Regarding compression, 777 does not react well to heavy compression. In fact, the Hodgdon web site cautions to use only light compression. The issue is not ignition failure but rather inconsistent velocities and thus projectile trajectories.

February 26, 2012, 02:08 AM
Works well in a CVA Bobcat.

Sure Shot Mc Gee
February 26, 2012, 11:30 PM
Mr.Guido you saidWorks well in a CVA Bobcat.

Since most Bobcats were 50 cal percussion. My knowing your favorite Triple777 grain charge would be appreciated? Under what type of projectile please? (Rd Ball -sabot- or Power Belt thing'ees?)
Others on this thread have said any shooter using Triple 777 (loose) had to leave this powder semi-compacted below its projectile to see consistent results? Did you follow that rule too Mr. Guido in? (Not being to aggressive in forcing your projectile down on top of this 777 powder charge to eliminate any chance of an air pocket?)

February 27, 2012, 01:02 AM
You'll be fine. If you do happen to get a misfire... wait a safe amount of time and recap.

As somebody else said, get magnum caps if you really think you're going to have problems.

I've got a 58 cal H&R, an early inline that shoots patched round balls and I can't recall ever having a misfire... I've got 10 lbs of goex in my stash, because it will store FOREVER, but I shoot 777 exclusively in the rifle and a bunch of cap and ball revolvers with no problems whatsoever.

In my opinion 777 is pretty good stuff.

February 27, 2012, 06:00 AM
My pet load for that gun was 80 gr 777 ffg under a 225 gr pure lead Buffalo Bullet in the yellow sabot, but it would shoot equally well with .490 prb's. Ignition was fast and reliable. I never had a problem with over compression but I don't stand on the ramrod either. My rod was marked so as long as the bullet stops at the mark, I don't need to give it that little extra push. I have since gifted that rifle to a friend and I'm not sure those bullets are even still made.

FWIW, after trying a lot of different bullet/gun combinations, my three goto projectiles are home cast maxi balls, paper patched conicals and prb's.

February 27, 2012, 08:06 AM
Used it in my TC flinter, had to put a prime load down the barrel and tap the side, then load the 777 and prime the pan, went bang as usual, no delay. I've been experimenting with alternatives as I'm about out of real B/p and apparently nobody sells in in lower Ky.:mad::confused::(

February 27, 2012, 11:01 AM
As others have stated, there should be no problems using 777 in your side-cocker.
Now then, if you read the label, it says; "Easy Clean" M/L Propellant. Well, I guess it's all relative and not all that ... ;)

Not as bad a BP or Pyrodex but will still eat your barrel if left dirty, too long. .. :(

One of our training rifles, just happens to be a Bobcat and if you are going to have any ignition problems, it's going to be with the Bobcat. .... :cool:

Be Safe !!!

Sure Shot Mc Gee
February 27, 2012, 02:31 PM
Knowing of all that has been written to date about this subject on our thread? I feel a little more at ease about giving 777 a try. I do have access to #11 cci Mag caps. So I don't perceive I'll have any problems with its ignition. I now know that clean-up after a shooting session is still mandatory even with the spend'y stuff. So, I didn't save anything there in that category. I guess there are rules that must be followed to be a conscientious shooter of B/P weapons. Doing anything less would be a disservice to one of my favorite rifles. I do believe :)

February 29, 2012, 12:07 PM
Maybe you're going about cleaning it wrong. Pop the barrel off, stick the breech in a bucket of soapy water. Put a tight fitting patch on a jag and work it up and down the full length of the bore a few times. The suction will draw water up the bore and push it back out the nipple. Change patches and do it again. When clean water is coming out remove the barrel and wipe it down and run a few dry patches through it. Then spray WD-40 down it and follow with another couple of patches. Then run a patch with a thin layer of bore lube on it. Wipe the outside with an oily rag and set it aside. Personally I don't remove the lock every time. I run a wet toothbrush over it and wipe it down with an oily rag. Put it back together and wipe everything down again and you're done. Won't take much longer to do than it did to read this.

Sure Shot Mc Gee
February 29, 2012, 12:18 PM
To Hawg Haggen: Thanks for the tips. On my next cleaning session I'll have to include a can of WD-40 into my routine :)

February 29, 2012, 12:41 PM
Just to be clear, WD is not a lube so don't use it as one. It displaces water.

Sure Shot Mc Gee
February 29, 2012, 03:20 PM
Hawg Haggen: I'll keep that in mind about the WD-40 being a water displacer only. I've been using a spray can of Number 13 T/C Gun Oil that offers the following according to its label i.e. lubricates, penetrates, & during storage protects. It's got a strong odor to it though?:( Great for the gun case, horrible for the woods. I don't think the squirrels like that smell much either?:mad: Their always barking at me.:D

March 1, 2012, 08:25 AM
I don't think the squirrels like that smell much either?

Deer hunters are what tickle me. Many go to extremes to keep odor down and use all the fancy scents and then go traipsing thru the woods with a gun reeking of some kinda fancy gun oil you can smell a mile away.:D:D:D:D

Sure Shot Mc Gee
March 1, 2012, 10:00 AM
Hawg Haggentraipsing thru the woods with a gun reeking of some kinda fancy gun oil you can smell a mile away. :D Ain't that the truth!!!