View Full Version : Proper rust removal

February 23, 2012, 04:24 PM
Like many, I have a "project" gun in the works. It is one of the SOG VZ 24 7mm mausers discussed in a recent thread. It definitely has some rust...so was needing some opinions. At first, I was considering naval jelly but after researching its use, found it probably is most likely way too harsh, so I went looking into alternatives. I found these two prospects:

A.) Evaporust

B.) Envirosafe rust remover

People seem to have had good luck with the Evaporust, but it is rather costly...10 dollars or so for a quart. Looked into the Envirosafe...it is in a concentrated form. 1 gallon of the stuff (around $60) can supposedly produce up to 10 gallons of solution. Im thinking the Envirosafe might be the way to go...plus the solution is reusable and I never know what other projects or things around the house could benefit from its use. Its definitely less harsh than the naval jelly. Have any of you used either products? What did you think/recommend?

February 23, 2012, 05:14 PM
Start with oil and a rag. You will probably be surprised how much of the rust comes off.

If it needs more, move to bronze wool.

Start with the least aggressive, if it doesn't work, move up the ladder as needed.

Try it first before you move on to the caustic stuff.

February 23, 2012, 06:37 PM
Naval jelly WILL remove rust. Plus bluing and about everything else.
My personal preference is 0000 steel wool, try it dry first, then use oil. Fore checkered surfaces such as a butt plate a bronze brush works great. Remember a very GENTLE touch works better than really leaning into it. Also wear rubber gloves.

February 24, 2012, 09:29 AM
...10 dollars or so for a quart. Looked into the Envirosafe...it is in a concentrated form. 1 gallon of the stuff (around $60) can supposedly produce up to 10 gallons of solution...

Good Lord, how much of this stuff do you think you need for one rifle? :)

February 26, 2012, 08:52 AM
Proper rust removal? This is the best method I have used.

electrolysis tank (http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=62728)

February 26, 2012, 06:56 PM
Whoah, that is pretty cool madcrate. I was wondering about the expenses I was going to have to accumulate with burners, a special tank, and all that other good stuff. This homemade electrolysis tank is the very epitome of C&R cheapness, but effectiveness! Thanks for the post!

February 27, 2012, 08:18 AM
It's a low buck method that achieves high buck results.;)

Wait until you see what it can do for those dark nasty looking barrels.

It doesn't fix pitting but it does remove all the junk that sometimes appears to be pitting.

Another plus is it does not damage existing metal bluing.

February 27, 2012, 09:48 AM
Or you could start with gun oil and a rag.....

February 27, 2012, 09:49 AM
0000 Steel wool and rem oil will do the trick every time. Keep it from coming back too.

February 27, 2012, 02:30 PM
If you give a fark about your gun, start with the least aggressive method.

Oh, I don't know, maybe a rag and gun oil?:rolleyes:

If that doesn't work, move to bronze wool and oil.
If that doesn't work, move to steel wool and oil.
If that doesn't work, look to more aggressive methods.

February 28, 2012, 09:12 AM
Any chemical process (or electric, for that matter) that "removes rust" will remove some of the bluing if you're not careful, Bluing, like rust, is an oxidation of the steel.

February 28, 2012, 09:50 AM
I see we have some unbelievers here.

This is typical electrolysis tank results. It DOES NOT remove bluing. It removes RUST or iron oxide.







You well remove more bluing with steel wool and oil than with a ET.

No method of rust removal well get into the tiny cracks and clevises that a ET well.

You can build a basic ET for under $20 with you already own a battery charger. By far the best method I have used in forty years.

The next step is a bore cleaning setup with a mall wart for power.

February 28, 2012, 10:02 AM




February 28, 2012, 10:31 AM
I use an automotive battery charger.


You can see how bad it was from where the hilt was out of the solution.