View Full Version : gun cleaning ?

February 14, 2012, 11:28 AM
do you guys use Break Free Powder blast and Break Free CLP to clean your guns ? Do you use Rem oil ?
If you don't use these, what do you use ?
I want a spray to clean the action ?

February 14, 2012, 01:38 PM
Rem oil, hoppes, and gun scrubber (only on occassion)

February 14, 2012, 01:47 PM
In the action will be lube, dirt, powder residue .That should be removed in order to clean the gun .Spraying stuff into the gun does not do this. Use old tooth brushes , cotton swabs etc to do it when field strippng the gun ,Then use a good gun oil to lightly lube. Occassionally remove firing pin and extractor , clean and lube the parts .Do the same with mags.

Silent Bob
February 14, 2012, 03:04 PM
I have transitioned into just using G96 Gun Treatment. Pleasant smell (like bubblegum oddly enough). I have no rifles so I don't worry about removing copper fouling. I just spray a little on a toothbrush, brush fouled areas, then wipe it away with a blue shop towel. I coat the inside of the bore with it and let it soak while I clean the rest of the gun, then I brush out with the bulk of the fouling with bore brush and jag and patches. I use Q-tips to clean as well.

February 15, 2012, 12:31 PM
Non chlorinated brake cleaner is my best friend.

I use Hoppes, Montana Extreme, Break Free, and Pro Shot products...

February 15, 2012, 01:00 PM

If you want to clean the action, I recommend a pump spray of Gunzilla. Spray it. Let it sit about 24 hours, during which much of the carbon will just run out where it is wet enough. Then blow it out with whatever solvent spray you want to use (watch out for those that will attack plastic or stock finish. Once it's dry, follow up with something that will lube (more Gunzilla if you like).

Another product that will loosen carbon like that is Bore Tech C4. You'd have to supply your own pump sprayer. One fellow complained it irritated his skin, though, so wear gloves till its off.

Another product that will zap all carbon is Slip 2000 Carbon Killer, but you'll want to brush rather than spray. It's pretty harsh stuff, but it does clean.

I once cleaned a 1911 for a competitive shooter who hadn't cleaned it internally for a couple of years. It changed the feel of the trigger and successfully addressed a malfunction. But up to that point, the carbon had mainly tightened loose spots and the graphite in it helped lubricate. So unless you have a real reason for cleaning the action all the time, you might reconsider it. If you do need to clean one occasionally, there's no need to rely on sprays alone.

February 15, 2012, 03:50 PM
I use carburetor cleaner in a spray can. Apply it, wait a few seconds and blast it away with compressed air at about 30psi. Depending on the action, a light spray of gun oil. But not too much. Firing pins can clog up, especially in cold weather. I prefer to spray the innards of the bolt (rifle) with silicone.

February 16, 2012, 01:55 PM
I use low odor mineral spirits and marvel mystery oil mixed 75/25. Tooth brushes , q-tips pipe cleaners and compressed air.After dissasembly and cleaning , action magic for the action and rem-oil for the reciever and barrel. Hope's in the bore until clean and i'm done.I've ordered some rimfire bore cleaner,thought i might try it and see if it cleans the rimefire mess any better. Smokey 63*

February 16, 2012, 02:43 PM
I use Shooter' Choice & Remoil.

+1..."and gun scrubber (only on occassion)"

February 16, 2012, 03:31 PM
I too use many of the solvents mentioned, including Mineral Spirits, Shooter' Choice, Bore Shine. What I stopped using, a long time ago, is Rem-Oil. Found that in time, it got gummy and froze up in cold weather. Perhaps the new stuff is better. Instead, I too prefer the G96 Gun Treatment. ..... ;)

Ya know, mostly we just go along searching, settle on what "We" feel works and leave it at that. There are just too many solvents and lubes out there and I'd say they are probably very good. It's really anybody's guess or call. .. ;)

Be Safe !!!

February 16, 2012, 06:30 PM
I was using breakfree CLP, but I just started using froglube. Seems to clean the same as the breakfree, but so far I like its lube and protectant, properties a bit better, and its smells nice. So far it seems to do the same job as breakfree CLP and a little tw-25b grease.

+1 to what Pahoo said also, the impression I get is that there are a lot of good products out there. Just gotta find the ones you like for your equipment, usage and routine.

February 16, 2012, 09:16 PM
i have been using pro-shot one stop clean and lube. what about liquid graphite? i got it for bike cables but great for any thing that moves with friction

February 17, 2012, 08:34 AM
no one has mentioned the inhibitor, they have oil and cleaner degreaser, both have a rust inhibitor in them. They are safe on plastic and rubber as well as stocks.


February 24, 2012, 02:24 PM
I have been using Breakfree CLP since it was first available. (back in the dark ages) Haven't found anything better. Rem oil is the worst thing I have ever seen next to WD 40. If you want to go cheap buy a quart of Dexron Automatic Transmission Fluid. Don't use anything in an aerosal can. Graphite won't stay put where you want it. Carb cleaner is dissolving varnish and lacquer in your carbs. Brake cleaner is for flushing out brake pad material. None of these are present in your gun.

February 25, 2012, 07:50 AM
All the previous poster's have good advice, but here's some of the products I have tried lately,
Gunslick foaming bore cleaner, Id rate this product as a # 7, on a scale of one through ten.
Shooter's choice "copper and lead remover" it only get s a #6.
Barnes Copper remover, gets a #7 also.
Smith&Wesson Bore gel gets a #7 too.
Hoppes # 9 gets a solid five, because it does run the Girls plumb out of the house!!:D
Butch's Bore shine would get a #7 but all the braggs and hype didn'y help this product work right, it only gets a #6
Break free CLP is going to get a Soid #8 because it's a product that will smoke any carbon build up,,;)(and you can rinse it off in hot water).
I also use a Non-chlorinated brake cleaner spray to remove any loose grease, grit and "what have ya".

P.S. I only use Naphta (lighter fluid) on my trigger systems, about once every three trips to the range,,, and blow them out with compressed air.
I also at this very minut trying my lateset purchase Boretechs Eliminator,,, juries still out with this one.:rolleyes:

Last and certainly not least I take a spray can of G-96 ceaner lube and protectant and spray the entire action and I blow it out with an air compressor to remove excess oil, and wipe down all metal parts with the stuff, it removes carbon very nicely but is a little soft on the copper residues.
Since it does have a pleasant smell and outlasts any other CLP product, I'd give it a #8!! Every gun care kits is barren without this product!!;)

Hope this helps!!! ( you don'y want to know how much I spend on my gun maintenance)

Herr Walther
February 25, 2012, 08:47 AM
Hoppes #9 and CLP. I don't remember ever using anything else.

February 25, 2012, 02:27 PM

Be sure to use plastic or other non-cuprous alloy jags with your Bore Tech product, or it will look like you're never done due to it turning blue from contact with brass jags so quickly. Same for contact with bronze bore brushes.

February 25, 2012, 02:34 PM
Ever tried auto transmission fluid and motor oil? I was reading on THR a thread similar to this and a lot of guys that shot IDPA mentioned this combo. I think it would smell bad though.

February 25, 2012, 03:45 PM
Search for Ed's Red follow the mixing instructions, best bore cleaner out there.

February 25, 2012, 05:17 PM
I used Ed's Red (http://thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66586&d=1295911704) for some years and until fairly recently when I wanted to leave parts soaking for days or even weeks to avoid investing elbow grease. It's cheap to make, but it does have odor (motor oil and ATF combined is worse) and it's really nowhere near as quick working as the newer chemistry developments I mentioned. If you're willing to put up with odors, then Slip 2000 Carbon Killer will work the fastest by far. I just don't think it's safe to spray it. You'd need an immersion soak.

This article (http://www.boretech.com/docs/articles/precisionshooting_jan.pdf) from Precision Shooting Magazine covered a comparison done over a several year period. It was written before the Bore Tech C4 or Gunzilla were available. The author's results parallel my own.

February 25, 2012, 06:42 PM
I have used Remi Oil, Hoppies # 9, Break Free, Ed’s Red and my own oil/STP mix. All got the job done. Now I’m using Bore Tech Eliminator Bore Cleaner and FrogLube. Gets the job done better. Eliminator has no smell and gets the carbon and copper out. FrogLube smells good is water repellant and is a good lubricant/preservative. Both are child safe and biodegradable and when I finished cleaning a firearm with FrogLube my hands are still clean and smell good. :D

February 26, 2012, 07:43 AM
Unclenick the writing is on the wall,(probably at your gun bench, and now mine) I have wasted untold bullet and primer money's on "Bore cleaning" as of late.

I'm here to say the Eliminator from BoreTech kicks --s!!! My bore did finally come clean,, at least clean enough where I can no longer see any signs of copper build up.....

I'm pretty happy, hell this rifle has to be tested through all the last data rounds again to give them fair chances.
Thanks for helping, Unclenick.... RUN FOR PRESIDENT,,,,seriously I'll vote twice if I have to!!;)

February 26, 2012, 03:49 PM

I'd take you up on your offer to vote for me twice, but in most parts of the country you have to be dead and buried to earn multiple voting privileges, and that would be asking for a little more sacrifice than good bore cleaning advice merits.

Get yourself a small pump sprayer to carry some Eliminator with you to the range (I've got a 2 oz sprayer; one of the nice things about going water-based is you know the stuff is safe with plastics, sprayer parts included). At the end of your firing session (or earlier, if your tests include a cleaning schedule) remove the bolt, stuff a rag into the action to protect the bedding, and squirt a couple times into the chamber with the muzzle pointing down. I actually look through the bore and watch it run down to the muzzle to be sure it looks evenly wet. I keep a Neoprene stopper for each bore size, and once the liquid makes it to the muzzle I cork it. If I have a chamber plug for the chambering with me, I'll put that in, too, but a rag in the receiver lugs works, as does a larger stopper in some designs. Then I pack up and head home. By the time I get there, most of my rifle bores are pretty much free of adhered fouling. A couple of wet patches to get the loosened crud out and to re-wet the surface, then a wait and maybe one more round of that and a final wet patch and it's usually about as clean as it will get. No brushing, no abrasive cleaner, no heavy stroking. Just patched clean.

The reason for that wetting at the range is not simply to save cleaning time at home, but rather it's because carbon hardens with time. It was pointed out to me some time ago that if you decap cases at the range most of the carbon just falls out as dust. Let it cool even a few hours and it's already a lost less easy to remove. By hitting the gun with the Eliminator at the range, the surfactants penetrate the carbon and prevent hardening. They also penetrate the layers of carbon that alternate with copper layers, and will continue to even after the copper solvent is consumed. That makes any remaining copper easier to attack and remove.

Several folks I know don't bother to dry patch after their last wet patch of Eliminator. Its corrosion inhibitors are so effective that actually protects the bore. On another forum there's a fellow who shoots black powder who does that with his muzzle loaders. But if you want to oil with synthetic oil (I do) to make the next round of cleaning easier, then a dry patch before you apply the oil is reasonable.

February 26, 2012, 06:27 PM
Thank you sir!!:)