View Full Version : Have I ruined my Mosin-Nagant?

September 11, 2011, 11:26 PM
Hi folks,
I recently bought a Mosin-Nagant m91-30. My little family is extremely tight on funds and though this is an inexpensive rifle, it was a splurge for me. I was excited.

So I took it out to the range tonight and put 20 rounds through it and had an absolute blast. Good shooter too. When I got home this evening I decided to clean the barrel at least before bed time. I cut a patch in half, soaked it in solvent and ran it down the barrel from the muzzle end (which is how these things are typically cleaned) when I went to pull it back through, it got stuck.

I pulled as hard as I could and the cleaning rod came back out, but without the little plastic patch holder and patch which were still stuck in the barrel.

This is where I started making bad decisions.

I attached another little plastic jag to the rod and shoved it down and tried to push the stuck patch and holder on through to the breech. Rod got stuck again. Pulled rod out. Plastic jag and the little brass piece attached to the end of the cleaning rod that the jags screw into are both gone and now stuck in the barrel as well.

So now I have, in order, the patch, the original patch holder jag, second plastic jag, little brass sleeve, all stuck in the barrel.

No satisfied with screwing up this badly. I unscrewed the original cleaning rod from my Mosin, inserted it into the muzzle and pounded away at the obstruction. If it moved, it was very, very little. I tried for a good half hour and pounded at the obstruction hard.

I was afraid of completely destroying my cleaning rod, so I placed it back onto the rifle and gave up, but I'm afraid I might have pounded that little brass sleeve sideways into the bore, or something equally bad.

What the hell should I do? And have I likely destroyed my barrel (and thus the rifle all together in the case of a Mosin)?



September 11, 2011, 11:35 PM
Try removing the bolt and pushing it through from the breech end towards the muzzle.You can use a dowel rod to save on your cleaning rod.I highly doubt you harmed the barrel as the brass/bronze is softer than the barrel steel.

I have 8 91/30's,love them!

September 11, 2011, 11:42 PM
Thanks for the suggestion. I did actually try pounding from chamber end and it would move an inch from that direction either. There's nothing in there but plastic and cloth and the small piece of brass. Is there any way to just dissolve it out of there?

Any other suggestions?

I'm afraid a trip to a gunsmith would cost as much as the rifle.



September 11, 2011, 11:42 PM
Try squirting some Kroil down the bore and let it sit for a few hours if you are still stuck. Then try the method JRI suggested again.

September 11, 2011, 11:46 PM
You might try lacquer thinner down the barrel,allow it to sit muzzle down for a couple hours,that should help soften the plastic,try to keep the lacquer thinner off the shellac on the stock.Then give the barrel a good cleaning afterwords.

September 11, 2011, 11:58 PM
like JRI said, very unlikely you did any damage to the barrel, and the way to clear it is removing the bolt. a 5/16" brass dowel works well. local hardware store should have.
for future cleaning, push a saturated patch thru on a bare rod (no plastic thingy), then pass a brush thru. the pass the patch again. done.

btw, all surplus ammo is corrosive. hoppes #9 or a water and ammonia mix works well for cleaning.


September 12, 2011, 12:35 AM
Regardless of "how it's been done", don't ever clean from the muzzle end on any gun that allows cleaning from the breach end. Take the bolt out and push the rod trough the chamber out the bore.

More guns have been ruined by improper cleaning then shooting. Rods down the muzzle ruin the crown and muzzle end of the barrel.

September 12, 2011, 01:24 AM
You could take the rifle apart and use an electric hot air gun to warm it up to soften the plastic stuck in the barrel... But first I would plug the breach end of the barrel and fill it with Ed's Red and let it soak. That should loosen it up a bit...


September 12, 2011, 06:49 AM
as was mentioned.. a 5/16" dowel rod (brass, if you can afford it, hardwood if you can't) about 3 or 4" longer than the barrel. Slide it down to the obstruction from the muzzle end and hammer the obstruction out. A good deadblow hammer would probably be best for this, but a heavy plastic tipped hammer should work, as well. A regular carpenter's hammer or ball-pein will damage the end of your dowel much more quickly than one of the softer ones, but if that's all you have, go for it.
It's doubtful that the stuck patch/jag has damaged your bore.

Depending on your rifle, a 5/16 might be slightly too large to slip down the bore. Try it.. if you have to force it, go with a 1/4" dowel instead. You want to use the largest possible dowel, that will still slide down the bore without having to be forced.

September 12, 2011, 07:44 AM
I'm surprised no one mentioned the importance of getting corrosive primer salts out of the bore. This is CRITICAL, as the milsurp ammo (I'm assuming you were shooting surplus because it is inexpensive) has Berdan primers that have corrosive salts.

EDIT: I see Dreamweaver did mention this...

Most surplus military ammo has this- it's great for preserving the ammo for long term storage- but lousy for rifle bores. The salts attract moisture- just like if you put table salt down your barrel. It will rust them out in short order if not flushed out shortly after shooting.

I would immediately flush the bore with tap water. Some guys add ammonia to it, that doesn't help with removing the salts, but does help the residual moisture evaporate out of the barrel. This might also help with getting the patch out. A small amount of heat from a torch might also help if all else fails- not too much- just enough to soften the plastic. Barrel temps easily exceed 500 degrees when shooting, so keep it low...

Once you get the bore obstruction out, you should always take a small container of water (with or without Windex added) and pour some down the bore (from the breech) immediately after shooting. When you get home, patch it dry, clean, and (always) end with a lightly oiled patch through the bore to protect against surface rust.

To learn more about the wonderful world of the MN, hit up these forums:

Good luck.

September 12, 2011, 07:57 AM
Use the Kroil and the dowel rod BUT, I have had much better luck by cutting the dowel rod into about 4" sections, then inserting the sections and tapping or pounding as necessary. Less flex. Also if you totally bugger up the end you are pounding on you can remove it and start on a new 4" section. You have ruined nothing yet. Best wishes.

September 12, 2011, 05:12 PM
You didn't use an oversized patch did you? That would jam itself in there nice (yea I've seen it done, believe it or not). If it's that then try and burn the patch out (be careful...).

There's not a broken case head in there, is there?

September 12, 2011, 07:34 PM
A word of caution: using a wood dowel to pound out a barrel obstruction can result in the dowel splitting in the barrel and creating a worse situation. Always use a metal rod, preferably brass that is a close fit in the bore. If close fit is not available, tape wrapped around the rod to create a close fit in a couple of places will take the flex out of the rod. Here endeth the lesson. Goatwhiskers

TX Hunter
September 12, 2011, 07:59 PM
Well Did you fix It ? I read this post this morning, and here it is late in the evening and dont know if you still have a plugged up Mossin Barrel.:rolleyes:

September 12, 2011, 08:21 PM
I would go with the laquer thinner route, pour from the breech to the muzzle. Then I would take a brass dowel rod and try to hammer it from the breech to the muzzle also. And make sure you clean up that corrosive ammo! or else rust will be a greater enemy than your obstruction. I prefer gunzilla. Make sure when you clean you go from breech to muzzle, and do not use any plastic bits, they will break. Go with brass, you won't regret it.

Ideal Tool
September 12, 2011, 08:57 PM
"unscrewed original cleaning rod"..."pounded away for good 1/2 hour". "highly unlikely you did any damage to barrel"
There is always hope! :eek:

September 12, 2011, 09:04 PM
Thanks for all the help everyone. I havent attempted anything more yet due to having to work the next few days & no funds for a brass dowel. I may have to wait a couple weeks before I can buy one. I hate leaving a fouled up rifle sitting that way in the cabinet. Bugs the heck out of me, but for now it'll just have to wait. At least I have a good idea what to try now when I'm able. Thanks again, everyone.


September 12, 2011, 09:36 PM
Take the stock off and put the barrel in a vise. Put some kind of a rod in the barrel and heat the barrel with a bernze o matic on the outside. If you are lucky the plastic will get gooey enough to tap it out. You are not the first one to have this happen. Any plastic sticking to the barrel can usually be scrubbed out with a bore brush.

Ideal Tool
September 13, 2011, 12:19 AM
After all that..he's leaving it sit in cabinet for a couple of weeks..after firing corrosive ammo!:eek: If that old Mosin could only talk...He would have probably prefered a quick and honorable death by Panzer shell! Such a sad fate for an old loyal Komrad!

September 13, 2011, 01:50 AM
Some things are more important than a $90 gun.

September 13, 2011, 08:44 AM
I like that one guy's idea of lacquer thinner in the barrel, just make sure you oil the crap out of it once you're done.

You may have damaged the rifling depending on how hard you went to town with the cleaning rod but it's unlikely.

September 13, 2011, 02:35 PM
Ok, here ya go. To remove this type of obstruction, go to your hobby store and get a hardwood dowel longer than your barrel. If you cant find one longer, then two will do because you are going to cut them up anyway.

Cut them up into approx 6" lengths. Make one of them about 9" in length. Drop the 6"ers down the bore untill you have a few inches protruding from the end. Make sure the rifle is held against a solid surface (butt against the concrete floor etc.) Rap the dowel smartly with a hammer and drive the obstruction down. Once you are close to the muzzle, remove the 9" dowel and add a 6" dowel the reinsert the 9". It will give you about 3" to strike on. Repeat these steps untill the obstruction has been removed. I use a piece of steel flatstock between the hammer and dowel to keep from mushrooming out the tip of the dowel.

This is the method I use to "slug" a barrel and it works quite well. If this method does not work, then you are difinately looking at a trip to the smith.

TX Hunter
September 13, 2011, 07:10 PM
Good Luck With your extraction project. Please do be carefull on the job.:D

September 13, 2011, 09:33 PM
load it up and fire it! it will shoot the obstruction through :D

just kidding dont do that, you will get hurt.

I wouldnt worry too much about damaging it, I have seen all sorts of stuff get stuck in barrels with no damage. I even saw a guy get the recoil spring guide rod of his M249 stuck in the barrel! 4 hours of pounding later it came free, the barrel was fine. Any of the above methods will solve the problem, and hey, at lest you are learning this lesson with an inexpensive weapon.

welcome to the shooting world!

Willie Lowman
September 13, 2011, 09:59 PM
Just put a live round in the chamber and let 'er rip!

No don't do that.

a 5/16" dowel rod (brass, if you can afford it, hardwood if you can't) about 3 or 4" longer than the barrel. Slide it down to the obstruction from the muzzle end and hammer the obstruction out. A good deadblow hammer would probably be best for this, but a heavy plastic tipped hammer should work, as well. A regular carpenter's hammer or ball-pein will damage the end of your dowel much more quickly than one of the softer ones, but if that's all you have, go for it.
It's doubtful that the stuck patch/jag has damaged your bore.

Depending on your rifle, a 5/16 might be slightly too large to slip down the bore. Try it.. if you have to force it, go with a 1/4" dowel instead. You want to use the largest possible dowel, that will still slide down the bore without having to be forced.

This is how I got a broken jag and patch out of the barrel of my RPK once. I wasn't so thick headed to bang another jag into the mess but I bet a good hardwood dowel and a hammer will solve your problem.

Ideal Tool
September 13, 2011, 10:43 PM
"Some things are more important than a $90.00 gun". It is written: If you are faithful in little things...You will be faithful in large ones".
If someone who has posted that money is tight in his life, has so little disregard not to LEARN what the proper method of bore cleaning after using corosive ammo, to not have proper cleaning materials at hand (Older GI bore cleaner, proper cleaning rods and brass jags, and patches, BEFORE he ever fired that weapon, and then to leave it to stand for days with bore contaminated with corrosive salts..He would probably have the same attitude towards a $900.00 or a $9,000.00 gun.

September 14, 2011, 12:31 AM
pretty harsh, there, Tool... :rolleyes:

He came here for suggestions, not browbeating.

As far as I can tell, no one has ever stated that what he shot WAS corrosive ammo. Several have surmised that, but I haven't seen any confirmation from the OP. :confused:

This forum is a good place to learn. Sounds as if that's what he's trying to do.

September 14, 2011, 12:48 AM
To the OP,

You need to edit your location in your settings. There are several helpful members on this forum. If you have your location visible one may see they live in the same city or region. They may be able offer a helping hand.

Another idea is to do is to go talk to a local gunsmith. He maybe helpful and help remove it for no charge. There are several gunsmiths that are in it for the money, but their are some that are good hearted guys and that maybe willing to help you out.

Ideal Tool
September 14, 2011, 01:05 AM
hornetguy...Your right.. I have no right to judge or point fingers..I have done some pretty doozies myself. Now then..Lets take a look what could have been done different. When the patch started to clear bore, & entered chamber/leade..he must have felt presssure give somewhat..thats when he backed up rod. At the first sign of sticking he sould have STOPPED. Up-ended gun & soaked patch with solvent from breech. Let soak upside down for a while & PUSHED patch thru breech. What probably happened was that patch expanded when cleared bore & entered chamber..then by pulling..it created a wad of cloth around jag that no way was going to go back thru that bore!
In hindsite..cleaning should have been done from breech & out muzzle.
Last summer I followed directions and managed to get an expensive brand of bore-snake lodged in a Winchester-Lee .236 Straight-pull sporter..these guns arn't easy to remove bolt..so I figured the snake would save time..I was sweating bullets..and bent brass puller rod double before I got it out!
I did run plenty of solvent down bore to aid pulling. I don't know what I would have done if it had broke off in there...plastic covered steel cable & swivels..you would never drill it out. And this was an expensive and rare gun.
Last time I will ever use something like that. Hope everything works out alright with Wintrymix.
He might try brake cleaner..remove stock though..plug up breech with empty case & modeling clay..that stuff eats rubber gloves alive..I am sure it would disolve or at least soften plastic jag. If brass part is somehow jammed X wise in there..plug bore & pour in some Sweets..that stuff eats brass.

September 14, 2011, 01:56 AM
Where do you live? Maybe there is someone on here semi-local who has the tools and knowledge required to help you out so you don't have to wait weeks to buy a stinkin' brass dowel.

If you live near me I'd be happy to meet with you and fix your problem. Heck, I'd even buy a dowel for us to use. It'd only be a few bucks and I'd be happy to help a guy in need out.

September 14, 2011, 02:27 AM
Put a round in, tie a string to the trigger, unroll 50 ft of said string, hide behind trashcan and and give the string a quick, hard tug:D

September 14, 2011, 03:10 PM
Thanks for all the continued advice guys. I managed to pick up a metal dowel this evening and will be giving it a go in a bit. The ammo I shot was Brown Bear I bought at Gander Mountain. A little internet research seems to indicate that it isn't corrosive. I've dismantled the rifle so that I don't damage the stock while trying to pound the obstruction through.

I've most certainly learned a good lesson with this. I'll be far more careful about how I clean my firearms up in the future. I'll keep you guys posted with how it goes tonight ;-)


September 14, 2011, 03:15 PM
Yeah, when cleaning you dont ever want to try and reverse motion while in the barrel. If you start at the muzzle, push it all the way through to the breach. Likewise, if you start at the breach, and you should have, push it all the way through to the muzzle.

I just looked up the brown bear on Gander's Website.


Berdan Priming=Corrosive. They don't specifically say whether it is or is not corrosive, which I think is kind of crappy on Gander's part because they obviously know that it is. Saying Berdan Priming is "People who don't know what that means will buy it anyway. Many more people understand what corrosive means than what Berdan Primed means so we will just say that."

September 14, 2011, 03:19 PM
..I have done some pretty doozies myself.

me, too... I could probably write a book. When pulling a bronze brush through the bore, don't EVER try to reverse directions part-way through. :eek:

......don't ask me how I know....:o

September 14, 2011, 03:28 PM
I have read in several different places that the "newer" (whatever that is) berdan primers are not corrosive.
However, I have no quotable sources that confirm that. I also have no way of knowing what "newer" means. What are the dates that denote "newer"? :confused:
It would probably be a wise thing to treat all berdan primed ammo as at least probably corrosive, just to be safe. Cleaning a gun after shooting corrosive is just not that much more difficult. The only big thing is, do it ASAP after shooting.

September 14, 2011, 03:50 PM
Thanks for all the continued advice guys. I managed to pick up a metal dowel this evening and will be giving it a go in a bit.metal as in steel? :eek:

That's not a good idea. Brass yes, steel or aluminum no.

B. Lahey
September 14, 2011, 04:03 PM
Not all berdan primers are corrosive.

Brown Bear is one of many brands loaded with noncorrosive berdan primers.

September 14, 2011, 04:52 PM
When doing the shotgun brush and electric drill Mosin Nagant chamber scrub procedure, you can only turn the drill one way...or else the brush comes out of the base. It's not a big issue just a minor in convenience

September 14, 2011, 06:35 PM
Well, so far this project is a no go. I managed to get a dead blow hammer as well as the dowel. I duct taped a penny to the top of the dowel and then inserted it in the rifle at the breech and began pounding toward the muzzle. My dead blow is only 28oz, but thats all I was able to get. The penny duct taped to the top of the dowel works well to protect the face of my hammer, and after a few blows, the rod sunk into an indentation and basically made it like a giant nail head to hit.

The problem is, I've been hammering the hell out of the thing for a solid half hour and I've measered my progress at 1/8". And after pounding another 5-10 minutes, I had not progressed any further than that. Now if I pull on my dowel, it doesn't want to come back out either.

In between "pounding sessions", I've had the barrel laying in front of a hair dryer on high to heat it up. I've got it lined up so the dryer is pointed at approx. where the obstruction is.

I'm so damn frustrated with this. I'm ready to just scrap the barrel and keep the rest of the rifle as spare parts for an eventual replacement Mosin-Nagant.



EDIT- Update. I managed to pull the dowel out of the rifle, it wasn't stuck badly, but still have not managed to budge the obstruction at all. I'm half tempted to try pounding it from the other direction. The obstruction is actually closer to the breech end.

September 14, 2011, 07:49 PM
Yet another updated..
I give up. The barrel will either have to be tackled by a gunsmith or be scrapped. I have hammered literally as hard as I can off and on for 2 hours and the obstruction hasn't budged at all. I am utterly amazed that a couple pieces of plastic, a cloth patch, and a little threaded brass nut could be lodged in there so firmly that I can't *budge* it hammering as hard as I can. Blows my mind.


September 14, 2011, 07:52 PM
Did you try heating it up with a heat gun like I suggested or a propane torch like someone else said?


September 14, 2011, 07:55 PM
Yeah I did. Only thing I had on hand was a hair dryer. I heated the outside of the barrel with the hair dryer on high for about 10 minutes. The end of the hair dryer was almost up against the barrel while running. It probably wasn't sufficient heat to help.


September 14, 2011, 08:01 PM
A hair dryer doesn't put out enough heat for that. You need to nearly melt the plastic part inside for that and the barrel will have to be almost sizzling hot to do that.


September 15, 2011, 08:46 AM
Where do you live? Because if you're near I'll be more than happy to give you a hand, and if not near me someone else will help you!

And you're not trying to drive it out the muzzle are you? Because if I read your post right you got it stuck as you were pulling it from the breech to the muzzle, you want to drive it out the way it went in.

September 15, 2011, 10:34 AM
And you're not trying to drive it out the muzzle are you? Because if I read your post right you got it stuck as you were pulling it from the breech to the muzzle, you want to drive it out the way it went in.

+1 ^

I assumed it was stuck near the breech, and also assumed you would be driving it out from the muzzle end...

September 15, 2011, 11:17 AM
Might sound stupid.... but what if u borrowed a torch... and sent the flame up the barrel.... That should burn the patches... and melt the plastic enough to hammer & dowel it right out of the barrel.:confused:

September 15, 2011, 11:21 AM
I like the torch idea!

If he can't borrow a torch, can he put some lighter fluid in there light it and melt it (if wood trim removed)

bailey bud
September 15, 2011, 12:17 PM
I'm sure it's ruined.

Send it to me along with a $20 bill -- and I'll dispose it properly, for you.

September 15, 2011, 12:40 PM
I'm in the Charleston, WV area.

September 15, 2011, 03:55 PM
I would definitely push it towards the breach, not the muzzle. Some barrels taper down very slightly (very, very slightly) towards the muzzle (not sure if Mosins do).

Just make sure to protect the muzzle.

September 15, 2011, 03:57 PM
Ideal tool, what I meant is that if money is as tight as he has indicated, then it is more important for him to be at work earning money than fretting over an easily replaced $90 rifle.
I was working on a soft hillside about five years ago in a brand new $100k john deere tractor. I was cleaning cattle pens and as I raised the loaded bucket, the left front tire sunk and over I went. Couldn't get the loader down in time to save it. Luckily I walked away from it unscathed & was able to go home that night to my family. Tractor was trashed. Point being you were harder on this guy over an honest mistake on a cheap rifle than anyone was on me over a six figure machine. Some things matter. Some things don't. This predicament falls into the second category as long as he learns from (& doesn't repeat) his mistake.

September 15, 2011, 04:31 PM
I don't intend to throw a wet blanket on the fire, but the OP won't be resolving this easily. The company I work for molds these Jags and swab ends for Michael's of Oregon and Hoppe's.
The jags are made of high temp chemical resistant nylon. Outside of Drano or caustic soda, there are very few chemicals that the OP can use to disolve them.

Back to the 2 main options. A brass rod or a gunsmith.

The material these jags are made from is BASF Nypel 2314C HS BK.
Here is the official description of the nylon

Nypel 2314 HS BK6 is a black pigmented, low viscosity, heat stabilized, semi crystalline, injection molding compound based on recycled PA6 feedstocks. It also offers the following: good chemical and thermal aging resistance, good flow and processability, as well as good dimensional stability.
Typical Profile:
Melt Temperature 240-285 degC (464-545 degF)

Best of luck.

September 15, 2011, 04:39 PM
I am sure everybody here would love to take a look a the OP's rifle and help him out.

I think that the chances that he permanently damaged the bore is low.
The only concern that I have is the use of the stock steel cleaning rod, but he stated that he put it back before it got out of hand.

I dont think that any amount of cloth, plastic or brass would damage it.

Without any outside help I think he could sooner or later get it out. just have patience and keep at it without getting frustated.

if I understand the thread, the obstruction is near the breach, and he was pulling toward the muzzle, so, I would try to go toward the breach.

September 15, 2011, 06:29 PM
New question:
I found a place on-line where I can buy a replacement barrel (no receiver) for about $35. If I were to buy this barrel and screw it onto my receiver and re-assemble my rifle, would it be likely that the headspace would be close to spec?

Aside from remote-firing the rifle and inspecting the spent cartridge for damage, is there any way for me to check the headspacing without taking it to a gunsmith or buying a field gauge?



September 15, 2011, 07:07 PM
is there any way for me to check the headspacing without taking it to a gunsmith or buying a field gauge?
Not that I have personally tried.... But others might have some novel ideas involving rubber cementing soda-can shims (0.005" each) to the bottom of a unfired factory cartridge and closing the bolt (no extractor) to find out where NO-GO is relative to the un-shimmed (SAAMI minimum) case dimension.


Have you tried that earlier idea of dumping Kroil down the breech to fill the barrel, and letting it sit for several days/a week?

September 15, 2011, 07:24 PM
If you get your barrel off send it to me and I'll get the block out for you for an extra barrel.

I think your giving in too early, it's going to be a real pain in the arse to get that block out. Get crafty but use brass or wood in the barrel.

September 15, 2011, 07:29 PM
I found a place on-line where I can buy a replacement barrel (no receiver) for about $35. If I were to buy this barrel and screw it onto my receiver and re-assemble my rifle, would it be likely that the headspace would be close to spec? Not likely and getting that barrel off the receiver will be very difficult even if you had the right tools. You will definitely ruin the rifle attempting that yourself.

September 16, 2011, 07:33 AM
Interesting thread. Is it possible the obstruction could be pressed out?

September 16, 2011, 08:12 AM
If it is near the breech, then how about an improvised "drill" ..... kinda like the bullet pullers that come with patch and ball rifles? A sharp screw brazed onto the end of a cleaning rod? Screw it into the offending patch/plastic jag a little bit, rip it out ...... repeat to take it out peice at a time ....... maybe a very small peice, but it would be progress ....... pounding on it is just compounding the problem, is it not?

Best of luck to you, and I wish you were closer..... I had a hell of a time getting started reloading, and it seemed nobody wanted to help ...... you don't know how to do anything until you know how, and there are two ways to go about finding out: trial and error and finding a teacher/mentor ....... trial and error is by far the more expensive route.

TX Hunter
September 16, 2011, 08:46 AM
Have you tried soaking the barrel in WD 40 If you have it oiled up really well it may be easier to get it to move with your dowel.
I wish you were closer, Im sure I would be able to get it out for you.

September 16, 2011, 09:22 AM
Just a thought - I would be tempted to try using something like a screw extractor to thread into the "glob" and try to pull some or all of it out, rather than pushing it out. You might have to get a little creative in making such a thing. One thought is to get some steel (or brass) bar stock, sharpen the end and use a die to cut some threads into the end, or get a long extension to mount a small screw extractor - something like that.

September 16, 2011, 10:02 AM
Cotton can be dissolved with bleach.
I a very short time (couple of hours) 100% bleach will turn a cotton swab into rotted thread.

September 17, 2011, 05:22 AM
I'm currently letting the barrel rest after applying some kroil. I'll let this soak a few days and give it another go.

If this doesn't work, what do you folks think of removing the bullet from a cartridge, tying the rifle to a tire and remote firing it (just the primer and charge, no bullet) to push the obstruction free?

I've done some reading and found claims that barrel bulging or failure from firing a round with an obstructed barrel is caused by the bullet coming to an abrupt halt in the barrel and immediately transferring all it's energy to heat in one small area, causing the barrel to deform or fail.

With the bullet removed from the cartridge, the expanding gasses from the charge are all that's going down the barrel, and this is typically not sufficient to deform the barrel or cause it to fail.

Considering the material that's lodged in this rifle, I'm rather confident that this would dislodge the obstruction, or at the very least, disturb it enough to make hammering it through possible.



September 17, 2011, 06:57 AM
I have a lathe. I would get or turn a piece of brass to a diameter that slip fits in the bore, drill a 3/16" hole in it and cut it about an inch long- a drill bushing. Place the bushing on a long 3/16" drill bit, use duct tape to hold the bushing from crawling back up the shank of the drill bit. Drill a hole through the obstruction. Use a battery powered drill and drill slowly. The obstruction should then drive out easily.

An 18" bit should reach the obstruction.


September 17, 2011, 10:25 AM
500-600 degrees +/- is no problem for a propane torch, and that temp will not cause any damage to the barrel.

If it were my gun, I'd do as I suggested back in post #10 and put some heat to the barrel. With another body applying the heat to the barrel right at the location of the jag, punch away at it with the dowel. I would think that as soon as the plastic reaches the temperature where it will soften, it should give way. Don't stop, quickly push the mess outta the barrel before the plastic has a chance to cool and "reset".

I don't see how a gunsmith can do anything that an amateur can't...what type of specialized "tool" will get the obstruction out?

September 17, 2011, 12:05 PM
FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DON'T DO THAT! Even without the bullet you have a chance of doing some pretty good damage to the rifle and yourself. (OP's idea) Because if there is nowhere for those gases to go, depending on how hard all of that is lodged, it will try and find a way out...

September 17, 2011, 01:57 PM
meatgrinder42 is right, don't shoot it with the bullet removed. You have gas pressures to be concerned about.

I'd try the torch suggestion and try to burn it out. Tapping it again will only compact it more.

michael m
September 19, 2011, 07:11 PM
Please dont try to fire anything in that barrel. It could hurt you or even worse.

I think the cotton swab was cut to large. I think if the plastic jag was to large you would of not got it into the barrel. I would try what was said in post #62. I have never tried 100% bleach before on cotton but it is worth a try. I feel once the patch is out the rest will come out with little force.