View Full Version : to bed or not to bed... rem 700 300saum.

May 25, 2011, 02:21 PM
I just bought a remington 700 bdl 300 saum off my father. This rifle was purchased a while ago and has the real chinsy looking sps stock on it, the old style. I recently purchased a new style sps synthetic stock for it. It the new style sps stock with the wider front forarm. It looks really good. My question is, how do you bed a rem action. Ive done a savage before but dont know if the two are the same. Also, i have reaf that it is either real hard to do on this style stock, or that its usesless. Does anyone have any info they wouldnt mind sharing? Thank you for your help.

P.S... I know ill catch flak forit but, i havent shot the rifle yet. i am hoping to get out a shoot a couple groups befor bedding the stock, but figured id ask this question in the meantime. Thanks guys, Brian.

big al hunter
May 25, 2011, 06:37 PM
Until you shoot it enough to know that it is less accurate than you need it to be don't do anything. If the stock you purchased has the aluminum bedding block in it you may not need to do anything else, as long as it fits properly.

May 25, 2011, 09:50 PM
I would think the answer would depend on how much flex you have with the new stock.

I agree, shoot it first.


May 25, 2011, 10:33 PM
Shoot it first before you fix something that may not be broke.

May 25, 2011, 10:48 PM
Congrats on the Rifle!...I would probably shoot the rifle and see how it shoots before I changed anything JMO

May 26, 2011, 03:51 AM
Shoot it first. As an example, I have a 700 ADL Varmint. With the synthetic factory stock I get almost .60moa, not bad.

May 26, 2011, 05:38 AM
Mine shot pretty well before bedding, but shot better afterwards. The key is in doing a good job of bedding. If you're not experienced, you can easily make things worse.

Remington 700s are about the easiest action to bed. They don't have blind receiver screw holes that can screw up an otherwise good bedding job when epoxy gets into one, preventing full tightening of the action screw. (It's most often the front screw.)

Some suggestions:

1. Put two layers of masking tape under, front, and sides of the recoil plate.

2. Cover the trigger mechanism with masking tape.

3. Place bedding about an inch forward of the recoil plate.

4. Use a thin layer of material, just enough to fill in the low spots and place a very thin layer over the aluminum to make a perfect fit. I like Brownells Acraglas for this particular bedding job.

5. As a release compound, I like to use two coats of neutral colored paste shoe polish, buffed. It works better than the stuff that comes in kits and provides perfect metal-to-bedding fit. Modeling clay can also be used to prevent small pockets in the receiver from locking it into the bedding. (Trigger pin recesses come to mind.)

6. Remember that the bedding block fits pretty tightly now, so masking tape put in the wrong places can cause the action to not sit properly on the bedding block.

7. Be sure to remove the bolt to prevent epoxy that may get into the front screw hole from welding the bolt to the receiver. After removal of the action, be sure to clean out the screw hole and any epoxy that may have gotten into the receiver's breech area.