View Full Version : Changing ruger blackhawk hammer spring ?

April 20, 2011, 10:18 PM
Got me some Wolf Springs for my Bisley Blackhawk and I've got the grip frame off and wanting to change the hammer spring. It is pretty stout and I'm a bit leery of how to accomplish it.

I read in a google search of a fellow putting the strut in a vise and using the tines of a dinner fork but he must have had a sturdier fork than I have. Any suggestions from those who've done the job ?

T. O'Heir
April 20, 2011, 10:37 PM

April 20, 2011, 10:56 PM
1. Secure strut end in smooth jaw vise or pad jaws with wood.
2. Push down on spring retainer plate with a pair of square jaw pliers.
3. Remove pin, punch, or paper clip you used to retain the spring, from the strut.
4. Gently release pressure on the pliers.
5. Remove old spring & install new one.
6. Reverse these steps for the install.


April 20, 2011, 11:14 PM
Thanks I got it with some advice found on this site here (http://www.hobbygunsmith.com/Feature.htm) . Hobby Gunsmith. Now if I can get the guts all back together I'll be a happy camper. :)

April 21, 2011, 12:10 AM
Thanks I got it with some advice found on this site here . Hobby Gunsmith. Now if I can get the guts all back together I'll be a happy camper.

It's a very simple design, but not quite reverse order of disassembly.

If you have any issues, don't forget the Ruger Tech Tips (http://www.ruger.com/products/newModelBlackhawkBlued/extras.html). They're actually quite helpful.

April 21, 2011, 01:06 AM
Thanks very much FrankenMauser. I just got done installing a Power Custom Half Cock Hammer/Trigger kit with their pre cut transfer bar. Wolf hammer and trigger springs. I may or may not install the Wolf cylinder pin bushing spring since I have it. It turned out to be a drop in as advertised. Locks up tight and the trigger is smooth as silk with no creep. I did think about stoning the parts but decided discretion was the better part of valor and went with it as it was. :)

April 21, 2011, 01:25 AM
I recently installed a Wolff spring kit in my .327 BH, have a SBH Hunter (stainless) hammer on the way for the .327, and will probably be ordering another spring kit for my .44 Mag SBH. I considered stoning the .327, but figured I'd wait for the new hammer (and I find it helpful to see how the trigger and hammer are "wearing in" and contacting each other, after some use). The SBH is well worn, and thoroughly broken it. It just needs some springs.

They're perfectly serviceable revolvers from the factory, but a few springs can make things that much better. ;)

April 21, 2011, 01:30 PM
Here it is with old parts in the background and the hammer set to half cock. I watched some youtube vids on disassembly and and assembly by RugerFirearms that helped a lot. The guy assembled a Blackhawk in like 30 seconds. Took me three hours. All is well that ends well though and the trigger is slick as a whistle. Nicely lightened and no creep whatsoever. The cylinder lock up is better too so I lucked out all around.


April 23, 2011, 09:14 PM
"Use the fork, Luke" And always replace the factory spring with a HEAVIER one, not a lighter one. The lock time of Ruger's SAs is already way too slow. Making it any slower with a lighter spring converts it into a flintlock. Jimmy10mm, if you have a Ruger with no creep you have an extremely rare Ruger.

April 24, 2011, 08:58 AM
converts it into a flintlock

And.....what's wrong with flintlocks? ;)

I found, on my Ruger revolvers, that after some use I was able to switch back to the original spring. There is a 'wearing in' process that slickers things up just fine. And, I believe, as in IMHO, the use of a teflon based lube, like Break-Free definitely improves the action.

I was going to advice the OP to read the owners manual but deferred. It might sound condescending. Changing the springs is really easy.

April 24, 2011, 12:43 PM
Nothing wrong with flintlocks if you have REAL STEADY hands and can hold them that way until at some point the thing fires.:D