View Full Version : removal of blunderbuss barrel

Frank the pirate
February 19, 2011, 09:57 PM
How do I take the barrel off of my CVA blunderbuss? It looks like it has some kind of pin in the forestock but I want to make sure, Thanks!!

February 19, 2011, 11:22 PM
It's pinned and the tang screw has to come out.

Frank the pirate
February 20, 2011, 05:35 AM
Do I just tap the pin out? thanks!

February 20, 2011, 06:42 AM
Yes, just be careful it doesn't splinter on the side it comes out from.

February 20, 2011, 07:07 AM

How do you be careful it doesn't splinter? Either it does or it doesn't, right? By the time you see it splintering, it's splintered! If you have a method, please explain it. Thanks

February 20, 2011, 07:42 AM
If he's careful it probably wont but if he pays attention and it starts to he can quit before any real damage is done.

February 20, 2011, 07:53 AM
Then how does he get the barrel off if it starts to splinter and he quits?

February 20, 2011, 07:55 AM
He doesn't :D

February 20, 2011, 08:57 AM
You hear that Frank? You have been advised to not remove the barrel.

February 20, 2011, 09:14 AM
Traditionally, pins and keeper keys are inserted and removed from the right hand side only.
The question is: Why remove the barrel at all?
A blunderbuss is primarily a novelty these days. Hang on wall. Enjoy.

February 20, 2011, 09:22 AM
You hear that Frank? You have been advised to not remove the barrel.

I didn't say that.:eek:

Traditionally, pins and keeper keys are inserted and removed from the right hand side only.

Not so. I've done a lot of research on Hawken rifles and the keys went in from left side on originals so the head of the key would be in palm. I've seen quite a few original rifles and shotguns with pinned keys that went in from left side. My original Ancion SXS doesn't have a pinned key but it was installed from left when I got it.

February 20, 2011, 09:26 AM
HH, I am currently in a pre-caffeinated condition and not responsible for my words. :rolleyes:
Later, I'll open my safe and take a look. I could be full of something besides coffee, wouldn't be the first time. But, if I'm right, I'll come back at ye. ;)

February 20, 2011, 09:51 AM
The question is: Why remove the barrel at all?

That's a good question.

But, if I'm right, I'll come back at ye.

I have no doubt of that.:D

February 20, 2011, 10:49 AM
Hawg wrote:
He doesn't

If that doesn't say he doesn't remove the barrel because he might chance splintering the wood, then what does it say?

February 20, 2011, 11:55 AM
If that doesn't say he doesn't remove the barrel because he might chance splintering the wood, then what does it say?

You're putting words in my mouth I didn't say. I said IF it starts to splinter he can quit with no real damage done. If it starts to splinter it's up to him whether to continue taking it off. If it starts to splinter and he quits then obviously he doesn't get it off.:D

February 20, 2011, 12:54 PM
HH, I'm back, coffeed up and brain working as well as it usually does. I checked my rifles, all have pins/keys installed from the right. These rifles represent the work of five different builders, three of them acknowledged master class. I looked in some of my books for visual reference, all have entry from the right. I tried to reference my copy of 'How to build and recreate the Kentucky Longrifle' but I cannot find it. I suspect I loaned it and it was never returned.
I stand by my original advice, remove barrel keeper pins and keys from the right hand side only otherwise wood will be splintered.
HH, git some coffee.

February 20, 2011, 01:13 PM
Maybe pins go in from the right. I've seen original guns and pics of original Hawken's with keys in from the left. Saw it in a book somewhere that keys go in from the left. My Hawken blueprinted from an original has keys in from the left and pinned. I won't argue with you tho. If you say they go from the right then I defer to your superior knowledge.

February 20, 2011, 02:34 PM
Don't forget that the Europeans drive on the wrong side of the road. :D

February 20, 2011, 03:02 PM
Not all the Europeans, just half of them;)

Are we talking about my right or the rifle's right?

If the pins were installed from the right, then shouldn't they be pushed out to the left, or isn't that right?

If I am left handed but using a right handed rifle to the right of my right handed brother then am I on his left?

So back to the topic...yes you have to remove the pin, which either removes to the right or left and should be done with some measure or attempt of care in an effort to avoid splintering of the wood or other damage...so put the sledgehammer or pickax down:D

February 20, 2011, 03:27 PM
Pins and keys should be removed from the same side as inserted or they will wedge and possibly crack the wood. Most are tapered.
One responder on my muzzle loading forum did remind me that on C&B revolvers (Colt style) the retaining wedges do go in from the left.
BTW: left or right refers to the shooters L or R when aiming the rifle.
I don't own a good Hawken repro (or original for that matter :rolleyes: ) but the builder of my Jaeger has one and is one of, if not the best, maker of repro Hawkens there is. I'll see him later this summer and will check it out then. I might even phone him, been a long time.

Frank the pirate
February 20, 2011, 04:59 PM
I want to refinish the stock to match my hawken, What do use to tap the pin out? I'm thinking the head of a small brad nail, thoughts? As far as shooting it goes,for re-enacting purposes we don't use live shot. However, it likes about 150gr of FFFG with magician's flash paper for wadding, it gives it a nice effect. (and wakes the dead)

February 20, 2011, 05:02 PM
Not a nail. Use a drift punch. If you must use a nail file it down flat.

February 26, 2011, 10:22 AM
Gotta admit, eating one's own words tastes awful.
But, I'm only sorta nibbling, not swallowing them completely.
I found my book "Recreating the American Longrifle" by William Buchele and George Shumway. The book is considered by many to be the 'bible' on the how to of building a traditional muzzle loader. And Buchele and Shumway were for a long time considered the ultimate experts on the subject. The book is well researched. (BTW, I knew George Shumway. He was a true gentleman.)
As for which side pins or keys should be installed, I have long believed they should be inserted and removed only from the right side. And, many master builders I have known subscribe to that philosophy.
When I built my Brown Bess, I carefully researched many details, including visiting a colletors display of original BBs. The pins were inserted from the right.
OK, now my word eatin' confession. On page 87, they say, ".....and by tradition (wedges) enter from the left or cheek-piece side." :o
But, to further investigate this world stopping issue, I looked through a bunch of back issues of Muzzle Blasts. I found illustrations of originals that showed pins and wedges inserted from both sides.
I can only conclude there is no traditional 'rule' for which side they should be inserted.
So, HH, on this issue I owe an apology.
But, I'll getcha another time. ;)

Bill Akins
February 26, 2011, 11:54 AM
If worried about splintering, I'd lay the stock on a soft piece of wood. Then I'd drive the pin out so that the soft wood held back any wood from splintering outward while the metal pin entered the soft wood like a nail. Then wriggle the pin out of the wood afterwards.


February 26, 2011, 01:13 PM
HH, on this issue I owe an apology.

Nah, you may be right there may not be a correct way to do it. I mainly looked at pics of original Hawken's and I read somewhere(don't remember where now)that keys for right handed shooters went in from left and for left handed shooters they went in from right so the head of the key would be in the shooters palm.

But, I'll getcha another time.

Of that I have no doubt.:D