View Full Version : '58 Colt .357 Magnum

December 6, 2010, 10:22 PM
I am considering getting a '58 Colt .357 Magnum CTG 4" barrel, serial 158xx... I was told it's some sort of a police-issue gun because it has rubber grips... also comes with a speedloader for it...

this would be my first revolver, all my experience thus far has been with semi-autos, so I'm looking for more info on what to watch out for... I think it's a double-action, can anyone verify? is it a safe gun overall? any known issues (I've heard something about getting out of timing, and something about a locking ejector rod)... it is supposingly in decent shape, with minimal blueing wear, no rust, but hasn't been fired or cleaned in a while, just stored... also, if anyone could suggest a ballpark value for it, that would be great... any other info would be appreciated... thanks in advance!!!


December 6, 2010, 11:17 PM
Some one else can give you a guessamate on the value. However " non standard grips ", do not, a police pistol make.:)

December 7, 2010, 04:22 AM
While Colt revolvers are very nice, and very smooth, parts are non-existent. Timing issues are real, especially if you like to shoot double action hard and fast. For a first revolver, I would point you in a different direction, maybe a Ruger.

December 7, 2010, 05:35 AM
But I am a Colt collector/shooter. The .357 Revolver was Colts first medium frame .357 made from 1954-61. It then became the Trooper .357 which was basically a name change. It is an I frame which is the same as a Colt python. Colt will still work on it should timing become an issue. You gun has the target hammer and would have most likely had the full checkered walnut target stocks. An original pair of those stocks sell for about $200 these days but they didn't have room for speed loaders and were phased out about 1960. With original stocks, you would have a 6-$700 gun. I believe vintagegungrips.com is reproducing the full checkered stocks. I would buy it if the price is right.

December 7, 2010, 12:52 PM
I am thinking about getting it as a trade-in, to compenate for value on a different sale, I am not exactly "looking" for one, just another toy to add to the collection... I also figured about $5-600 value, based on gunbroker prices...

so did I understand it right that the handgrips were replaced with rubber ones to allow for the speedloader, and it's not a "police" deal? also, how common are the timing issues, how can I check for them (preferably without firing), what are the dangers of them (backfiring?), and who besides Colt can work on correcting those?

thanks for the info thus far, please keep it coming :)

December 7, 2010, 07:41 PM
I tend to disagree with scorch in that parts are still reasonably available for "I" frame Colt revolvers.

Also, while there are maybe a few who get $200.00 for a set of Colt "I" frame target grips on eBay or some such, if you look around, you can find them for a lot less. People tend to get "auction fever" on sites like eBay and Gunbroker and overpay for some things.

I've had two .357's in my lifetime and both of them had a smooth lockwork that equaled or exceeded any Python I've had, especially the later Pythons made in the 70's and 80's.

December 7, 2010, 09:53 PM
The rubber stocks that are on it now are pachmayr presentation. For a period, Colt sold these with Colt emblems installed both on factory guns and as assesories. In 1960, Colt introduced the Python with a 4 in. barrel ( Colt called it the police python) and the wood stocks had the left side relieved both as a thumb rest and it made clearance for the speedloader. These wood stocks phased out the earlier full checkered target stocks.

The way to check timing on a positive lock action Colt such as this is to slowly single action cock the hammer. If the bolt locks into the bolt notch on the cylinder just as the hammer clicks into full cock, then it is perfectly timed. If the hammer reaches full cock but the bolt did not lock into the cylinder notch, then it is not perfectly in time. Often, some chambers will lock and some not. If cocking it slightly faster than slowly makes them both happen, then your OK firing it. One will find out the pulling the trigger will make the cylinder rotate further and almost all of the time lock the bolt into the cylinder. If you are able to cock it and slightly pull the trigger to fire it AND the bolt still does not fully lock into the cylinder, then DO NOT shoot it as it is not in alignment with the barrels forcing cone and can damage the firearm.

December 7, 2010, 11:31 PM
Since the lockwork is identical to the Python and Official Police finding those parts is not a big problem, barrels are another matter. I have 2 Troopers-the post 1961 version, I found a spare 4" barrel at a now closed gunshop a few years ago. Only problem I have ever had with my 1968 Trooper-purchased in 1972-was a cracked forcing cone, not sure how I did it, and I fired it for a while before noticing it.

December 8, 2010, 12:33 AM
great! thanks again for the info, guys :) if there's anything else that comes to mind, or any further discussion, I'd love to hear about it... cheers!

December 8, 2010, 07:24 AM
original grips would look like this.

FYI GREAT Shooting revolvers! Enjoy