View Full Version : 1911 Help

August 24, 2010, 09:00 PM

I own 2 1911 which i enjoy regularly. i own SIG GSR full size and CASPIAN basic 1911.

I got a Caspian full size in trade and have problem with it. It shoots fine. I noticed the problem when picking up the rounds. Some were torn, others crimped and some nothing. one more thing few shell just ejected straight back toward me and hit me on my face.

i know it has something to do with Extractor but dont know what it is or how to Fix

can somebody help. picture attached


August 25, 2010, 10:54 AM
Those are caused by the slide striking the cases on closing before they clear the ejection port. This is actually more likely a load/ejector/recoil spring combination problem than an extractor problem, but a mis-tensioned extractor can contribute to it.

The easiest way to correct extractor tension is with a Weigand gauge from Brownells (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=16125/Product/EXTRACTOR_TENSION_GAUGE_SET) that works together with a trigger weight scale. It is sold as a set that covers 9mm Luger through .45 ACP for $15.

It has to be kept in mind the standard 1911 is designed for full power ammunition with bullets 200 grains and up. It was also designed for the military, who don't care what condition the brass is left in, so even the full power stuff is often dented after leaving a military 1911. As soon as you shoot reduced power loads or start using bullets lighter than 200 grains, more brass damage can occur.

There are several things you can do about this. The Colt Goldcup and most modern 1911 clones have the ejection Port lowered at its bottom edge and an angled radius thinning cut called a rollover notch is put on at the back edge of the port. In combination with a reduced power recoil spring, these help lower power target loads clear the ejection port. You may already have these feature on your gun. Your photos look like the leading edge of a roll over notch may be what hit the edges of the case mouths, but I can't be certain without handling one.

Some kinds of spring-loaded recoil buffers cause the slide to slam back forward prematurely. If you have one installed, try removing it.

Another fix (my first move in this situation) is to install a Commander length ejector in place of the standard 1911 ejector. The Commander has a shorter slide stroke than the full size 1911, and to get brass clear of the ejection port before the slide starts to close on it requires the ejection be timed to begin a little earlier in the extraction. So, the Commander ejector has a nose that sticks out a little further than a standard ejector does, and the case head runs into it sooner as the extractor pulls it back. If you make this change it is often helpful to angle the ejector nose a little to give the case the best trajectory out of the ejection port. A picture of that is below, with an as-purchased Commander length ejector on the left and one with a modified nose one on the right. Again, Brownells has the Commander length ejectors (they call them Extended Ejectors (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=0/k=Extended+Ejector/t=P/ksubmit=y/Products/All/search=Extended_Ejector)), though there are other sources.


August 25, 2010, 08:07 PM
Also what power recoil spring do you have

put a 16 lb in it.

August 26, 2010, 10:20 AM
The FIRST thing to check is the amount of tension the extractor is exerting on the cartridge. The fired cases look like they are slipping from the extractor and being driven into the edge of the slide. A "...ball round...held in the slide by about 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 lbs. of extractor pressure on the cartridge rim...". This ala "The Colt .45 Automatic, A Shop Manual", by Jerry Kuhnhausen.
With the slide removed from the frame, slip a cartridge from the bottom, up under the extractor and see if it is being held with adequate tension. I think that you will find that it is not.
If it is the extractor, it needs to be bent a little more. They make guages for bending, but with a little at a time, you can experiment and likely get the problem fixed without buying the tools.

August 26, 2010, 12:44 PM
Dahermit is correct. Check extractor first (it's easier than putting in an ejector and may require no new parts), and look at the spring. The ejector is the first actual alteration you may have to consider. I've worked mostly on setting up target pistols with which the light loads turn out to have the brass problem when hardball doesn't, so the springs and/or ejector need attention. But if you are shooting hardball loads rather than target loads, the likelihood goes to favoring the extractor.

August 26, 2010, 08:57 PM

I am not sure of Power of Spring

dahermit, Unclenick
thanks for valuable input.
I am shooting factory load. This is week end i will try to takeout Extractor will try to adjust it per your advice

will let you guys know


August 29, 2010, 10:34 PM
If you are shooting full power loads [ factory ] , then as suggested you need a 16# recoil spring. They are only a few bucks so I'd replace it, and I bet your problem disappears. Best ,Lyle