View Full Version : Set of stones for my 1911?

June 1, 2010, 07:58 PM
I would like to start building up a collection of tools for working on my 1911. I am wondering if there are any sets of stones that anyone can recommend. I want to have stones for working on both the sear and hammer as well as a stone that will fit in to where the trigger is placed to de-bur the trigger channel. If anyone has any suggestions I would love to hear them.

June 1, 2010, 08:24 PM
I'm reluctant to discuss Stones and Files, for working on firearms.

I've seen too many people, when a gun has a problem, deside the fix is Stones, Files, Moto Tools, etc.

I learned a long time ago, metal wears down with use, it dosn't grow, So why wear down the parts by filing or stoning them further.

Just my opinion. I've worked on a lot of 1911s converting USGI 1911A1s to Hardball Bullseye guns my state guard unit. Never needed too much stoning or filing. If I got a gun with the slide or rails a littel too tight, I'd just oil them up good and fire a couple hundred hardball rounds until they functioned propertly.

June 1, 2010, 08:34 PM
Fusion has some nice stones relatively inexpensive; a brand name too; I forgotten. I got em and there good. Brownells for files. They are tougher to find, especially Swiss pattern files, with safe edges. Brownells has them. You can buy a Nicholsen "mill" file at Home depot for gross metal removal. Sandpaper at an automotive store 1500 grit (very very fine) on down.

June 1, 2010, 08:49 PM
I see no problem with stoning a gun if you are conservative with your operations and understand what you are doing.

June 2, 2010, 10:58 AM
I spent over 40 years working in a metrology environment and have stoned a LOT of things over a LOT of years.

Hands down the best stones I have EVER used are Degusset. THe ruby stones are pure sintered aluminum oxide ( synthetic ruby ).

They will put a finish on just about anything. You should be aware they are NOT cheap.

If you drop one, it will shatter. They are hard enough to polish the serrations off a file.

Google Degussa and look for ruby stones. There are many shapes and sizes.

The little set that I bought in 1968 or so for $44 is well over $280 today. I still have many of the stones I had then and have not found their equal anywhere.



June 2, 2010, 11:28 AM
The goal of "Stoning" mating metal parts on a firearm that actually functions is to POLISH not remove the metals, you just want the surfaces crisp, sharp corners and radius just polished like glass. I use matheson swiss hones, I got them from a Fanuc Controller dealer. They come in a set of shaped, curved and pin hones.

June 2, 2010, 12:48 PM

What you say is true to a degree. Often, the task is to remove burrs from things like gage blocks that prevent one surface from wringing to another.

The goal IS to remove metal without damaging the underlying surface that would prevent surface to surface wringing.

For firearms, the goal is often to remove and smooth burrs and small surface imperfections that hinder smooth mechanical movements.

June 2, 2010, 06:39 PM
For the price and longevity, the best gunsmith stones are ceramic.
These don't wear like natural stones, and maintain their sharp corners and edges.

Buy from Brownell's.

June 3, 2010, 10:30 AM
Brownells www.brownells.com has a kit with the tools and stones for working on a .45. They might have several kits, I know that one is a more basic kit and has the stones and a few other things.
Brownells may be a little more expensive on some things but has the best tools and the very best custome rservice of any store in the world.
They are great people to work with and have a tech line if you need help.
Get the two book set by Jerry Kuhnhausen, they are the best books on the 45.
Also better the Brownells catalog for $5.00, they refund with the first order and are the best gunsmithing catalog anywhere.

John K