View Full Version : Ruger Old Army base pin latch

May 12, 2010, 03:03 PM
I'm pondering replacing my ROA base pin latch with a push button type. From first glance, the one in my New Model Blackhawk looks too small. Since I'd have to make-up a tool to remove it to allow closer inspection, I'll pose the question, instead: Has anyone installed a push type base pin latch in a ROA without having to modify the existing 1/3-turn latch's holes -- and, if so, what model of latch did you use?

May 12, 2010, 03:18 PM
How about using a ClemBert Pin (http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=370620&)?

May 13, 2010, 01:18 AM
Thanks for sharing your ClemBert Pin -- I like it better than a push-type. I'm surprised the Belt Mt folks weren't interested. They're the ones I first thought of when I tried to Google ROA base pin latches and came up with zilch. I think I'll try one that's just a pinch different -- perhaps something asymmetrical.

May 13, 2010, 01:54 PM
Is there any chance I could employ you to manufacture theese little wonders,I would need three asap,future orders will follow,name your price,and drop me a line:D

May 13, 2010, 02:07 PM
Is there any chance I could employ you to manufacture theese little wonders,I would need three asap,future orders will follow,name your price,and drop me a line

Aw, c'mon! ;) Even I can do this job! In fact, I just ordered a couple of spare pins so I can keep the original ones as is. Basically, all you need is some soldering skills and a Chinese milling machine (i.e., a file :D).

May 13, 2010, 03:05 PM
I just got a 1/2" (1.25" OD) stainless-steel washer for 65-cents. This looks to be one of my cheapest mods, yet. I just did a loading stand from wood scraps, but the hinge was almost $2.


Yep, I know, that's a Remmy in the ROA's stand -- the Ruger is apart, and waiting for that washer to be smallerized.

May 16, 2010, 04:58 PM
Here's my version of the ClemBert Pin. I departed from my initial schematic (see #3) with a radius to match the contour of the Old Army. If I can do it, including brazing stainless for the first time, then anyone can.

Thanks, again ClemBert!


May 16, 2010, 08:11 PM
Clambert, The Clambert Pin is a prime example of good old fashioned ingenuity!

May 17, 2010, 09:35 PM
Zippy, great job! Now post us some pics with it installed.

Andrew, Zippy does better work than me. Maybe he can make you up a few.

May 18, 2010, 06:54 PM
I must confess, my ClemBert Pin took MUCH longer than I'd anticipated. The main reason is my lack of experience silver brazing. As I applied the solder, I thought: "What harm could a pinch more do, just to make sure I get full penetration?" Well, I got good penetration, all right, and several large blobs as a bonus. It took what seemed like an eternity to file away those blobs -- the stuff is much harder than the lead/tin solder I've used before.

After countless file strokes, I got to thinking, there must be an easier way. Then it hit me: How about using the technique found on some of the components on my classic bikes? The old Campagnolo downtube mounted shifter had an adjuster screw with a wire loop as a finger grab. Wouldn't something like that work great on the ClemBert Pin? Drill two holes, bend a bit of 15-ga stainless steel spoke -- and you done -- no filing at all. Some food for thought should I try another pin.

Here's a pic of my ClemBert Pin in a ROA with a catalog cut of the old-school Campy shifter tension adjustment screw.


May 18, 2010, 07:01 PM
Could the size & shape of the pin cause an injurious ricochet in the event of a chain fire involving one of the cylinders that's in line with it? That may only potentially occur during the 1st or 2nd shot fired from a freshly loaded cylinder because the cylinder turns in that direction.

May 18, 2010, 07:11 PM
Most likely his ClemBert Pin is just going to bend right over. I think the main disadvantage is a possible holster hangup on some types of holsters. I don't holster myself but if I did I go with my other style of ClemBert Pin...the one with the knurled end on it that can be see in the the linked thread.

May 18, 2010, 07:25 PM
Articap asked, "Could the shape of the pin cause an injurious ricochet in the event of a chain fire involving one of the cylinders that's in line with it?"
Good point, it's not beyond the realm of possibility; but, the factory latch was in the path of a chain fire before the thumber was added. It's another reason the folding Campy-style wire loop, or a knurled nut might be a better idea. I use heavily lubricated custom over powder wads with hopes they will prevent chain firing.

May 19, 2010, 03:28 PM
zippy, my ClemBert Pin was made specifically for my conversion cylinder so I could very quickly remove the conversion cylinder, reload, and re-install it. It is unlikely that I'd have a chainfire with my 45 Colt reloads. I use a factory retaining pin when shooting cap-n-ball style. Thus, my comment on a potential holster issue as being the primary issue for me....but...I don't holster....yet. IF I had a holster and IF I had a hangup issue I'd probably reduce the size of the finger grip (the washer) on my ClemBert Pin. Then it would not get hung up in a holster. Your idea of using a wire type loop is interesting.

May 19, 2010, 06:15 PM
potential holster issue

Yes, that had occurred to me when I first read your great post/experiment. Did you ever solve that one???

May 20, 2010, 12:40 AM
I don't use one; but, for holster use, as ClemBert said, the wire loop or his knurled knob would be a better choice than the thumb lever. I love my ROA, but it's a bother to remove the cylinder (compared to the RNA) when loading with a cylinder press.

March 30, 2011, 09:28 AM
If you are using the cartridge cylinder with the factory base pin/bullet seater setup couldn't you just fire the pistol without locking the screw? The reason i am asking this is because I do this with my ROA but if for some reason I am overlooking would this would be unsafe?