View Full Version : I need some M1 Garand feedback!!!!!!!

M1A Owner
March 25, 2010, 06:00 PM

I have caught that ever so frequent itch to buy another weapon and the lucky specimen is the M1 Garand. I currently own an M1A Standard, SOCOM 16 with VLTOR stock, and now the Garand has seriously caught my eye. I've been doing my research on them with the help from the M1 magazine and other resources, but I would like some Firing Line feedback. I have a friend who is a class III dealer and he mentioned CMP and I really like what I see. Has anyone used CMP and more specifically, has anyone received any Garands from them? I know a little about the different cartouches and matching parts. What do you recommend? Rack, Field, Service, Correct grade etc? From CMP's description, I think I want the Correct grade. I'm interested in a good QUALITY weapon, original manufacturer's markings and parts. I do not want and brand new one. I really like the HISTORY aspect of this weapon and want something to really reflect it. I don't mind spending the money for nice piece of history.

Anyway, I really need some good advice and would be very grateful for any good points about the weapon and if you have pictures of yours, please attach them too. Thanks, and I look forward to reading your replies.

Thanks again,
M1A Owner

March 25, 2010, 06:10 PM
The CMP is the best way to go.
Many if not most of the M1's you see at gun shows and gun shops are CMP rifles that the buyer switched and swapped parts on to make an "Correct" M1, then sold the Frankenstein gun they switched the parts from.
These almost always cost more than you could buy direct from the CMP.

The other rifles you see around are rifles imported back from foreign users like the ones that came from Korea a few years back.

If you buy from the CMP you get a genuine USGI rifle which if it has any problems, the CMP is very good about taking care of with no BS.
It'll be a rifle no one has been switching parts on or tampering with, and isn't a worn out old rifle that's been refinished to look good.

I'd do a good read of the CMP web site and decide which grade most suits your needs.

March 25, 2010, 07:22 PM
I picked up a service grade HRA a year or so back. I specified HRA since I was looking for a shooter & they tend to be from the later production years. Mine was in great shape & virtually a correct grade in that all component (as best I could determine) were HRA with the exception of the op rod, which was Springfield. From what I've read, it may well have been originally issued in that configuration.

The stock had some "character" marks, but it cleaned up very nicely. Metal components were all in good shape, the only fixups needed were to clean off the cosmoline & refinish the stock a bit ...

I've been very happy & consider it money well spent.



(the above is before detailed cosmoline removal was finished)




March 25, 2010, 08:02 PM
be advised you can not just shoot any ol 30 06 through them without risking damage to the rifle.

March 25, 2010, 08:04 PM
Correct Grade will have the correct parts for the receiver serial number. Note I did not say original parts. Generally these rifles are in better condition as far as throat and muzzle wear. External wear damage is luck of the draw.

Service Grade is all in all a good shooter. Parts will not necessarily be manufacturer correct nor will the period (WW II and post WW II mix). Wear may be slightly more than correct.

After that there's Field adn Rack Grades. www.odcmp.com for more accurate info.

Collector Grade will give you a great looker.

You won't find a "new one". And your buddy's Class III won't help with the CMP. You need to fill out the paperwork, make sure you qualify in all their requirements. If you can, go to their store in anniston, AL or Camp perry, OH (on the lake) and pick out your rifle(s).

I'd suggest one of each, cause you can't own just one. The M1A is a great companion for the M1.

Be careful. They're very addictive ....

BTW, they're not making any more of them.

Citizen Carrier
March 25, 2010, 08:20 PM
Closest you can get to "new" from the CMP is the "CMP Grade", which I suppose you were referring to.

They are "new" in the sense that they have a Criterion barrel (which is a button-rifled barrel produced by Krieger), new stock, and new parkerized finish. Otherwise, the parts are all USGI.

I bought the first one from CMP North back a couple of years when the first batch was offerred. I was the first one in the door that morning (I'd been camping out in a lawn chair by the door since 4:30 AM specifically for this).

I caught grief for this purchase from a guy on another forum. He said mine had no "history" and was something he would never buy. I responded that I bought it specifically for the John C. Garand Match of the CMP Games during the National Matches. And as a competitive shooter a barrel that guages exactly "0" was more important to me than cartouches and parts numbers.

I love historical firearms designs. Problem is, I like ones that look like they came from the factory last week.

March 25, 2010, 09:17 PM
re: mix and match parts to make a 'Frankenstein'

The serialized parts on the M1 are few and far between. What most people think of as 'serials' on the rifle are in reality Drawing Numbers. The s/n is on the heel of the receiver, for example, but the number on the bolt is a Drawing Number

As such and in my opinion it's kind of hard to quantify 'Frankenstein' guns when you talk about swapping parts on an M1. The US military commonly swapped parts while the rifles were in active service. It would also be difficult to prove 'originality' aside from correct part numbers for the s/n of the receiver

In regards to the CMP:

Bear in mind that all the photos you'll see of CMP rifles are going to be 'prettied up'. Few people take 'as received' photos of their CMP M1. I didn't but I wish I did.

I don't recall having to qualify for all of their criteria though. I recall having to qualify for one in a list of criteria. Being a member of the GCA can qualify you if I recall, and that's 25 bucks for a year's worth of pretty good newsletters

The key to buying a CMP rifle is to read about the qualification (which is actually easy) and to read and understand their grading criteria. There is a certain amount of overlap in the grades. A really good Field Grade could be the equal of an average Service Grade except for one or two parts. A poor Service Grade- although meeting the criteria for Service Grade- could seem barely better than a good Field Grade

Most people agree that in general, Service Grade is the way to go. A Springfield Service Grade is still under 600, or was when I looked last week. Same price as I paid in '08. Remember, you're buying the metal and if you get USGI wood, it may be chipped or even cracked in some places depending on Grade. Service Grades were coming with all new production wood for the last 12 months or so.

With my own rifle, I received all USGI walnut except for the front guard, which I simply swapped out with a walneut one purchased for 20 dollars. I asked for and received a WWII production Springfield. Bear in mind that the current company Springfield Armory USA is not the same place that made USGI rifles. The real Springfield Armory closed in 1968. Springfield Armory USA is not the old US Springfield Amory of fame. I don't think Springfield Armory USA makes a bad gun but I want to mention this. Springfield Armory USA uses the name legally and they use dates like 1794. Sorry Springfield Armory USA fans but the company has been around since the early 1970s. They are not even located in the same state as the original Armory. Again, I am not knocking Springfield Armory USA, but I feel a lot of confusion exists on that point. The original Springfield Armory is mostly collegiate facilities today, and there is a Museum in part of the old Armory. It's worth a visit if you're ever in Springfield Massachusetts

Anyway. CMP M1 Garands. The CMP stands behind their sales very strongly. They will send you parts for nothing if you get your rifle and there's a problem with it. That doesn't mean they'll send you free stuff in two years though :D

You will get a rifle with no sling from them. Maybe there will be a cleaning kit in the buttstock. Maybe nothing in there. if original wood is on your rifle it may be dented, smashed, chipped, etc. It will also likely be very dirty

This is my CMP Service Grade M1 rifle. It is a Springfield originally made in 1944. The barrel is a Springfield made in 1946. The rest of the parts are Springfield as well, but some are not WWII manufacture. I had to find some of the parts but it was not too hard and not pricey. To get an SA trigger group, I simply swapped with somebody who had a rifle that could use my trigger group, for example. This photo is close to when I first got it, this is the rifle as I got it but I had started on the stock


This is after I did the work


recent photo; I swapped out the post-war rear sight for a typeIII lockbar and also got a few small parts that had a better finish. Ten dollars here 15 dollars there most of the small parts are cheap. The rear sight was over 100 bucks though and that's by far the most pricey part I've purchased


chris in va
March 25, 2010, 09:24 PM
I want one even more now.

Just curious and this is a silly question, but how does the recoil compare to my Mosin? I'm assuming it's less being a piston gun.

March 25, 2010, 09:27 PM
The MN has a fair amount of kick according to what I'm told

In regards to the M1 rifle, my 72 year old Dad has no problems firing his. It shoves you alright, but it is not hard in my opinion

M1A Owner
March 25, 2010, 10:43 PM

Great advice and great pictures. Chris/Nick, you both have the weapon I want and I'm jealous. Everyone, please keep up the postings and pictures.

Quesiton: If you do travel to either one of the stores, can you pick one out and leave with it? This might be a "not so smart" question, but I don't know. I love the SA family as the AR15 family has grown old due to shooting them in the military for awhile.

Thanks again,

M1A Owner

M1A Owner
March 25, 2010, 10:48 PM
Another thing,

On CMP under the Correct grade, the add says only rifles between S/N's 5,400,000 and 5,800,000 are available. In my M1 magazine the cartouches only go to 4,350,000 S.A J.L.G. So where do these over belong?

Ya'll have been a great help and please continue.

M1A Owner

And yes I am from the South! HAHA!

M1A Owner
March 25, 2010, 10:50 PM

When I do get one, how will I know what year the parts where made?

Ignition Override
March 25, 2010, 11:01 PM
I tried out a friend's 30-06 Garand last week (he has four), my very first chance with the type. Another of Mike's is in .308.

The recoil is a fair bit less than with my LE #4 (.303) or Yugo Mauser (8mm).
It is not an issue.

This was my 21 year-old son's fourth chance to ever shoot a gun (any gun), because of my very late start....
After a few shots at 50 yards resting the Garand on the two bean bags, he then stood and one of three shots was almost touching the x bullseye.

Tim R
March 26, 2010, 03:10 PM

I have four CMP rifles and one DMC. The DCM was match tuned in 308. Only IHC eludes me for now.

I have seen examples of the current SA service grades which turned me green with envy some friends have gotten.

I am very happy with the rifles I have gotten from the CMP. I was lucky with the Winchester service grade I recieved. While there was not a lot of Winny parts, but it did come with a new CMP stock. It happens I had a Winny stock I lucked into for a sum of $55.00 from E-gun parts.

Recoil on a M-1 feels less than a M-14 or M1-A. I believe the 308 has a sharper recoil impluse according to my shoulder. (I shot M-14's for the Navy in the late 80's and then again the 308 M-1 seems to kick more too using M-852 or ball.)

I picked up a SA field grade at Perry in 07. Turns out it is only 3 parts from being WWII correct. It has the lock bar rear sights and the narrow front sight. Even came with a un cut op rod.

Finding out the year something was made is not hard with the right book. The reciever and barrel is simple. Fulton Armory has a list of when a reciever was made and the barrel has it marked when it was made. Everything else is pretty much by drawing number.